Baltimore’s food scene received a significant boost when acclaimed chef Peter Chang expanded his culinary footprint in the city. Following the resounding success of NiHao, his first Baltimore venture that garnered rave reviews, Chang introduced his second restaurant, specializing in a cuisine notably absent in Baltimore: dim sum. Located on Ashland Avenue, Peter Chang Baltimore, often referred to as PCB, has quickly become a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts seeking authentic and innovative Chinese flavors.
Dim sum, the Cantonese tradition of small, delectable dishes served alongside tea, is a culinary style that Baltimore has long craved. Peter Chang Baltimore fills this void spectacularly, offering an extensive dim sum menu alongside beloved classic dishes, some of which are also featured at NiHao. This provides a delightful range for diners, whether they are in the mood for delicate steamed dumplings or more substantial entrees.
Situated conveniently near Johns Hopkins Hospital, PCB presents a more casual dining experience compared to a traditional Hong Kong teahouse or even NiHao. The ambiance leans towards fast-casual, where patrons order at a counter rather than being seated at large banquet tables with roving dim sum carts. This streamlined service caters perfectly to the bustling Hopkins lunch crowd, and the restaurant’s popularity for takeout is further enhanced by its enticing boba tea menu.
While the atmosphere is relaxed, the food is anything but ordinary. Peter Chang Baltimore boasts an all-day menu that features both dim sum and signature dishes. Diners can indulge in the robust flavors of Chongquing sour-cabbage flounder, a masterful rendition of the classic water-boiled fish popular in Sichuan cuisine. The whole fried branzino, served atop a vibrant spicy pan sauce, is another standout, as is the Peking duck, available whole or half, with perfectly crisp skin and paper-thin pancakes.
However, the true allure of Peter Chang Baltimore lies in its dim sum offerings. For the quintessential dim sum experience, gathering a group and sampling a wide array of dishes is highly recommended. Begin with the essential xiaolongbao, delicate soup dumplings that are a dim sum staple. Orders of shumai and wontons, generously drizzled with flavorful chile oil, are also indispensable.
Venturing beyond the traditional dim sum fare, the cumin lamb skewers are a surprising and delightful highlight. These miniature skewers, reminiscent of toothpick lamb, showcase Chang’s innovative approach. The lamb, infused with cumin and chiles, achieves a perfect crispness and delivers an addictive flavor profile, despite being a labor-intensive dish to prepare.
No culinary journey at Peter Chang Baltimore is complete without exploring the dessert menu. The eight-treasure osmanthus sticky rice and black-sesame egg-yolk bao offer a sweet and satisfying conclusion to the meal. While the Peking duck is tempting to start with, indulging in the dim sum first is advisable to fully appreciate the breadth of the menu. For those still craving the duck, a to-go order from PCB or a visit to the more leisurely NiHao, better suited for banquet-style dining, are excellent options.
Peter Chang’s accessibility in Baltimore today stands in stark contrast to his earlier years. Fifteen years ago, the enigmatic chef was known for his nomadic presence across the Southeast, his elusive trajectory famously chronicled in a New Yorker article titled “Where’s Chang?” by Calvin Trillin. Chang’s impressive background includes cooking in luxury hotels and winning culinary competitions in China, followed by a move to the U.S. where he served as chef at the Chinese Embassy in D.C. before establishing his successful restaurant group and earning numerous accolades.
The presence of both NiHao and Peter Chang Baltimore in the city is a culinary triumph for Baltimore. One can easily imagine Calvin Trillin, perhaps, enjoying a quiet corner table at PCB, surrounded by stacks of bamboo steamers, a testament to Peter Chang’s enduring culinary appeal and Baltimore’s fortunate position on his gastronomic map.
