St. Patrick’s Cathedral, a breathtaking neo-Gothic masterpiece nestled on Fifth Avenue in the heart of New York City, stands as an iconic landmark, welcoming millions of visitors annually, regardless of their faith or background. This architectural marvel, capable of accommodating 2,400 worshippers, is more than just a religious site; it’s a testament to history, art, and the enduring spirit of New York. My own initial encounter with St. Patrick’s some years ago, during a chilly December, perfectly encapsulates its inclusive and intriguing nature. Entering to admire its grandeur and the Nativity scene, I was initially puzzled by the presence of a Labrador Retriever statue in the manger and the absence of Baby Jesus. A friendly security guard clarified, “Baby Jesus arrives on December 25th, and the Labrador Retriever honors Monsignor Robert Ritchie’s beloved pet, Lexington.” This charming detail hinted at the cathedral’s blend of reverence and approachability, a characteristic that continues to draw people in.
For New Yorkers, St. Patrick’s Cathedral’s location at Fifth Avenue and 50th Street is common knowledge. However, it’s worth noting for visitors that confusion sometimes arises with The Basilica of Saint Patrick’s Old Cathedral on Mulberry Street, especially for those with tour vouchers for the catacombs. The grand St. Patrick’s on Fifth Avenue is the one that captures the skyline and the hearts of millions.
Over the years, my visits to St. Patrick’s Cathedral have been varied – moments of quiet reflection, lighting candles for loved ones, and simply soaking in its peaceful atmosphere amidst the city’s bustle. Recently, the opportunity to partake in a VIP tour, curated for guests of Lotte New York Palace, offered an unparalleled perspective. This exclusive experience, led by a cathedral historian, unveiled hidden gems normally off-limits to the general public. Exploring the sacristy beneath the main altar, the bishop’s crypt, the main altar itself, and ascending to the choir loft for breathtaking panoramic views, provided a deeper appreciation for the cathedral’s intricate details and vastness. While the tour donation is substantial at $500, knowing that 100% of it supports St. Patrick’s Cathedral makes it a worthwhile contribution for those seeking an in-depth encounter.
Robert Meyer, my knowledgeable guide, explained the genesis of St. Patrick’s Cathedral. It was conceived to replace the Old Saint Patrick Church on Mulberry Street, the site of the catacomb tours, to accommodate the burgeoning Irish immigrant population in the mid-1800s. These immigrants, arriving in New York City, sought solace and guidance in their faith amidst the uncertainties of their new lives.
Recognizing the need for a larger house of worship, and with the Catholic Church already owning land on Fifth Avenue, the decision to build a new cathedral was made in 1853. Construction commenced in 1858, progressing rapidly until 1860 when funding shortages and the onset of the American Civil War brought it to a halt. In 1864, following the death of Archbishop Hughes, Bishop John McCloskey became Archbishop of New York, and with the war’s end, construction resumed. Under the determined leadership of Archbishop McCloskey, later Cardinal McCloskey, the cathedral was finally consecrated on May 25, 1879.
The vision for St. Patrick’s Cathedral was largely attributed to Archbishop John Hughes, who strategically chose its then-remote location in Manhattan, leading some to initially call it “Hughes’ Folly.” Hughes, known as “Dagger John” for his assertive nature, was determined to erect a cathedral of significant grandeur. Key figures in its creation included architect James Renwick Jr., also famed for designing the Smithsonian Institution, Grace Church in NYC, and parts of the Croton Aqueduct, and Cardinal John McCloskey, the first president of St. Johns College (now Fordham University).
Funding for the new cathedral came from diverse sources. While the growing, often impoverished, immigrant community contributed through small penny donations, wealthier patrons also played a crucial role, with 100 donors contributing $1,000 each. In 1878, the Great Cathedral Fair was held to raise additional funds needed to complete the project.
The architecture of St. Patrick’s Cathedral serves as a tribute to the dedication of its immigrant builders, both past and present. A comprehensive $300 million restoration project was completed in 2015, ensuring its preservation for future generations. Interestingly, the cathedral’s spires are annually inspected by the fire department. Following the tragic loss of five firemen during 9/11, the decision was made to preserve their inspection markings on the spires as a poignant memorial.
Upon St. Patrick’s opening, just before Christmas, visitors entered through magnificent bronze doors commissioned by Cardinal Spellman. These nine-ton doors are adorned with statues honoring Catholic immigrant forbearers: St. Isaac Jogues, the first priest of New York; St. Frances Xavier Cabrini, known as Mother of the Immigrants; and Mother Elizabeth Seton, a New Yorker by birth.
Private tour guests commence their exploration at the Cathedral Parish House, proceeding to the deacon’s sacristy and the main sacristy. This area houses Archbishop Timothy Cardinal Dolan’s zucchetto, crozier, and liturgical vestments, offering a glimpse into the ceremonial aspects of the cathedral.
The tour also includes the Sacristy Chapel, originally intended as the Kelly Family’s private chapel in 1900. However, due to lack of payment, it became the Sacristy Chapel. Nearby stands the sculpture “The Holy Child of Earth and Heaven.” Meyer recounted how in the 1940s, the Rockefellers, not ardent church supporters, erected a large statue of Atlas directly across from the Cathedral. Meyer interpreted this as, “The Rockefeller statue is a reminder of their struggle to hold the world on his shoulder. Our God holds the world in the palm of His hand.”
A metal door leads down to the crypt, the final resting place of all Archbishops of New York City. Their names and birth dates are inscribed on the door, with death dates embossed on their individual crypts below. A kneeler from Archbishop Fulton J. Sheen, who was initially buried here for 40 years before being moved to Peoria, Illinois, is also preserved. “We lost his body but kept his kneeler,” Meyer noted.
Back in the main cathedral space, Meyer highlighted inlaid plaques in each corner depicting the four Gospel writers, and an inlaid pelican, symbolizing sacrifice and nourishment.
He pointed out a small red upholstered chair, “This is the Archbishop’s chair. Wherever the Archbishop’s chair is, that’s the Cathedral,” a tradition since 1879.
The Lady Chapel, a popular wedding venue, features a statue of Mary and is now known as Our Lady of New York. Glass doors were installed in 2015 to enhance privacy.
The Stations of the Cross, once exhibited at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893, are located in the transverse area, spanning from the 50th to 51st Street doors.
Meyer highlighted the stained-glass windows, added after the initial construction due to the lack of electricity, to bring in natural light. The Founder’s Window depicts Archbishop John Hughes, James Renwick, and Cardinal John McCloskey, each holding architectural plans of the cathedral.
St. Patrick’s boasts its own La Pietà sculpture, not a replica of Michelangelo’s in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, but an original piece sculpted in 1906 by William Ordway Partridge and donated in 1915. Significantly larger and more vertical than Michelangelo’s, due to stone weight considerations, it stands as a cherished treasure within the cathedral.
Ascending a winding staircase to the Choir Room revealed the magnificent Kilgen organ, dedicated in 1930. Taking three years to construct at a cost of $250,000, it remains the largest organ in New York City, with 7,855 pipes.
Looking down from the choir loft, the expanse of the cathedral, the 94 stained glass windows, and the Main Altar inspired awe. Despite not being Catholic, I felt a profound sense of holiness within St. Patrick’s Cathedral. It’s a place that transcends religious boundaries, inviting everyone to appreciate its artistry, history, and spiritual resonance.
