St. Petersburg, Florida, boasts a vibrant culinary scene, and as someone deeply passionate about Asian cuisine, I’m always eager to explore new additions to the restaurant landscape. When Fortu, a Pan-Asian restaurant, announced its opening in downtown St. Pete, I approached it with a mix of excitement and apprehension. Having experienced a somewhat inconsistent Asian food scene in the area, particularly regarding Japanese and Chinese flavors, I hoped Fortu would be a game-changer. Spoiler alert: it absolutely is. Fortu has quickly become a standout among the many restaurants in St. Pete, offering a refined and delicious dining experience.
Pan-Asian is a broad term, encompassing a vast range of culinary traditions. While Fortu’s menu doesn’t cover the entirety of Asia, it masterfully focuses on Japanese, Chinese, and Korean cuisines, presenting a curated selection of dishes that are both familiar and innovative. The name “Fortu” itself, a creative play on “fortune” and Asian culture, sets the stage for the restaurant’s ambiance and culinary philosophy.
Located in the beautifully renovated space previously occupied by Ceviche, within the historic Ponce De Leon Hotel, Fortu has undergone a stunning transformation. Stepping inside, you’re immediately struck by the modern and sophisticated design, a world away from the previous tenant. The renovation is truly remarkable, creating an inviting and stylish atmosphere perfect for a memorable meal.
On my first visit, arriving for a 6 PM reservation, the restaurant was already filling up, a testament to its early popularity among restaurants in St. Pete. By the time we departed, Fortu was bustling at full capacity. To truly gauge the quality, I chose dishes that I was familiar with, items I’ve enjoyed at other establishments and even prepared at home. This allowed for a direct comparison and a clear assessment of Fortu’s culinary execution.
The service at Fortu is exceptional, setting a high standard for restaurants in St. Pete. Even a simple request for a specific gin and tonic garnish – Roku Gin with a fresh ginger matchstick, as recommended by Suntory – was handled with attentiveness and a commitment to guest satisfaction. While the ginger matchstick wasn’t immediately available, our server took the initiative to research it, promising to consider it for future service. This proactive and detail-oriented approach is indicative of the overall dining experience at Fortu.
My drink, the Tentaka Shuzo “Hawk in the Heavens” sake, was another highlight, a testament to Fortu’s well-curated beverage program. Small details further elevated the experience, like straws and serving spoons presented on platters with cloth napkins, and the diligent table maintenance, ensuring a pristine dining surface throughout the meal.
From the “For the Table” section, we began with the Pan Seared Gyoza and the Truffled Congee.
The Pan Seared Gyoza, filled with braised wagyu shoulder, corn silk, and shiitake jus, exceeded all expectations. As someone who regularly makes gyoza at home, drawing inspiration from culinary experts like Kenji Lopez, I can confidently say Fortu’s version is exceptional. The wagyu beef filling is rich and flavorful, elevated by the delicate corn silk and umami-packed shiitake jus. The perfect sear provided a delightful textural contrast.
The Truffled Congee, described as “risotto style,” was equally impressive, albeit a creative interpretation of congee. While technically closer to risotto, this dish was undeniably delicious, showcasing a rich, truffle-infused flavor profile. The name might be a slight misnomer, but the taste experience is undeniable and worth exploring among the unique offerings in restaurants in St. Pete.
Moving to the Raw Bar, we sampled the Spicy Salmon and the Hamachi Crudo.
While both were well-prepared, they were our least favorite dishes of the evening. The Hamachi Crudo, while fresh, lacked the buttery richness I typically associate with high-quality hamachi. The Spicy Salmon, featuring crispy rice, was enjoyable on its own, but the crispy rice base somewhat overshadowed the delicate flavor of the salmon. Personally, I felt a poke-style presentation with sushi rice might enhance the dish, but this is subjective, and others may appreciate the current preparation.
For the main course, the Miso Black Cod from the Signature Dishes section was a must-try. This dish, famously popularized by Michelin-starred Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, is a benchmark for Japanese cuisine. Having tasted it at Nobu in London and prepared it at home, I had high expectations. Fortu’s rendition lived up to the challenge.
The Miso Black Cod was perfectly cooked, exhibiting a beautiful presentation, flaky texture, and rich, umami-laden flavor. It had a subtle sweetness, slightly different from versions I’ve had elsewhere, but still exceptionally delicious. It’s worth noting that Black Cod is actually Sablefish, a Pacific fish, distinct from Atlantic cod. Its firmer texture is ideal for the extended marination required for this dish, a process Fortu executes flawlessly over two days.
From the Sides menu, the House Special Fried Rice was an intriguing choice. Despite its seemingly generic name, it proved to be a unique and elevated take on fried rice.
Unlike typical Chinese takeout fried rice with char siu pork, Fortu’s version features tender Korean BBQ pork, cut into larger, softer pieces. The rice itself is less greasy and boasts a silky texture, resulting in a refined and flavorful side dish that stands out among restaurants in St. Pete.
To conclude our first visit, we indulged in the Chocolate Espresso Cake and the Coconut Mille Feuille for dessert.
Both desserts were delightful, but the Chocolate Espresso Cake, with its rich chocolate sponge, espresso cream, and hazelnut crunch, was the clear winner, providing a perfect sweet ending to an exceptional meal.
On a second visit, I returned with a friend, eager to explore more of Fortu’s offerings. We started with cocktails – the Emerald Samurai Gin Fizz and the Agave Citrus Paloma.
Both cocktails were expertly crafted, balanced, and flavorful, further solidifying Fortu’s commitment to quality across its menu. For starters, we opted for the Wonton Tacos and the Crispy Potato Mille Feuille.
The Wonton Tacos, available with Wagyu tartare or salmon, were a revelation. Overcoming my past disappointments with wonton tacos, Fortu’s version was crisp, clean (not greasy), and bursting with flavor. We tried both the Wagyu tartare and salmon versions and found them flawless. The accompanying daikon and carrot garnish, dressed with sesame oil and Champagne vinegar, added a refreshing element.
The Crispy Potato Mille Feuille was another standout. The paper-thin sliced potatoes, meticulously prepared and pan-fried, achieved a perfect balance of crispy exterior and buttery, soft interior. The black truffle aioli accompaniment elevated the dish to another level, creating a truly craveable appetizer that I could happily eat a thousand times.
Continuing our exploration of the “For the Table” section, we sampled the Crispy Rock Shrimp.
This dish is another must-order at Fortu. Rock shrimp, a personal favorite and a less common menu item, was cooked to perfection with a delightfully crispy coating and a sweet, lobster-like flavor. The sweet soy and chili-garlic aioli complemented the shrimp beautifully, making it utterly addictive.
For our main courses on the second visit, we shared the Korean Fried Chicken, Miso Creamed Corn, and Carrara Farms Australian Wagyu Bavette Steak.
A selection of dishes from Fortu including Miso Creamed Corn, Korean Fried Chicken, and Carrara Farms Australian Wagyu Bavette Steak, showcasing the diverse menu of this St. Pete restaurant.
The Korean Fried Chicken, made with flavorful chicken thighs, was tangy, sweet, and crispy. While I personally prefer a spicier profile, the sweetness was prominent, and the chicken was expertly cooked. The Miso Creamed Corn was surprisingly sweet, almost dessert-like, reminiscent of rice pudding. While unexpected, it was an interesting and unique side dish.
Miso Creamed Corn at Fortu, a surprisingly sweet and creamy side dish, adding a unique flavor profile to St. Pete dining.
The Carrara Farms Australian Wagyu Bavette Steak was the star of this course. Cooked to a perfect medium-rare with a beautiful sear, the bavette steak was incredibly tender, juicy, and flavorful. This is a dish worth splurging on, a true highlight among the steak offerings in restaurants in St. Pete.
Fortu is a welcome and exceptional addition to the restaurants in St. Pete. From the stylish ambiance and impeccable service to the innovative and delicious Pan-Asian cuisine, Fortu delivers a top-tier dining experience. While there are (unofficial) plans to introduce sushi and sashimi later in the year, Fortu is already a must-visit destination. Reservations are highly recommended to experience this culinary gem in downtown St. Pete.
(Note: While online listings may show 97 Central Avenue, Fortu’s actual address is 95 Central Ave.)
