What Do Pet Tarantulas Eat? Tarantulas, fascinating and often misunderstood creatures, require a specific diet to thrive in captivity. At PETS.EDU.VN, we offer a comprehensive guide on tarantula feeding habits, covering everything from the best feeder insects to feeding schedules and addressing common concerns. Discover the ideal feeding practices for your pet tarantula, ensuring optimal health and longevity by exploring the diverse food options and specialized care available.
1. Understanding the Tarantula Diet
Tarantulas are obligate carnivores, meaning their diet consists solely of animal matter. In the wild, they prey on a variety of insects, small vertebrates, and other invertebrates. Replicating this natural diet in captivity is crucial for their health and well-being.
1.1. What is the Natural Diet of Tarantulas?
In their natural habitats, tarantulas are opportunistic hunters. Their diet can include:
- Insects: Crickets, grasshoppers, beetles, and other insects form the staple of their diet.
- Other Invertebrates: Roaches, mealworms, superworms, and waxworms are common prey.
- Small Vertebrates: Occasionally, larger tarantulas may consume small lizards, mice, or frogs.
1.2. Why Replicate the Natural Diet?
Replicating a tarantula’s natural diet in captivity is essential for several reasons:
- Nutritional Needs: A varied diet ensures that tarantulas receive all the necessary nutrients, vitamins, and minerals.
- Hunting Instincts: Providing live prey allows tarantulas to exercise their natural hunting behaviors, which is mentally stimulating.
- Overall Health: A proper diet contributes to healthy growth, molting, and longevity.
2. Common Feeder Insects for Pet Tarantulas
Choosing the right feeder insects is crucial for your tarantula’s health. Here are some of the most common and nutritious options available:
2.1. Crickets (Acheta domestica)
Crickets are a staple in the tarantula-keeping hobby. They are readily available, easy to handle, and provide a good source of protein.
Pros:
- Availability: Found in most pet stores.
- Size Variety: Available in various sizes, suitable for spiderlings to adults.
- Nutritional Value: Good source of protein and other nutrients.
Cons:
- Odor: Can produce a strong, unpleasant smell.
- Mortality: High mortality rate if not properly cared for.
- Potential Harm: Can bite or even eat a molting tarantula.
Feeding Tips:
- Keep crickets in a well-ventilated container with egg cartons for hiding.
- Provide a source of moisture, such as a slice of potato or apple.
- Dust crickets with calcium and vitamin supplements before feeding to your tarantula.
2.2. Roaches (Blaptica dubia, B. lateralis)
Roaches are an excellent alternative to crickets. They are more nutritious, easier to care for, and less likely to cause problems in the enclosure.
Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia):
Pros:
- Nutritional Value: Higher in protein and lower in fat compared to crickets.
- Easy to Breed: Can be easily bred in colonies, providing a consistent food source.
- Quiet: Do not chirp like crickets.
- Cannot Infest Homes: Cannot survive in most household environments.
Cons:
- Availability: Not as readily available as crickets in some areas.
- Slow Movement: Some tarantulas may not be attracted to their slow movement.
- Hiding: Can burrow into the substrate, making them difficult for the tarantula to find.
Lateralis Roaches (B. lateralis):
Pros:
- Fast Movement: Attracts the attention of tarantulas.
- Easy to Breed: Simple to breed and maintain.
- Size: Nymphs are great for small slings.
Cons:
- Escape Risk: Fast and can escape easily.
- Potential Pest: If escaped, they can breed indoors under the right conditions.
- Not as Nutritious: Slightly less nutritious than dubia roaches.
Feeding Tips:
- Keep roaches in a well-ventilated container with egg cartons for hiding.
- Provide a dry food source, such as dry dog food or chicken feed.
- Supplement with fresh fruits and vegetables for added hydration and nutrients.
2.3. Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)
Mealworms are another readily available and easy-to-care-for feeder insect. They are particularly useful for smaller tarantulas and spiderlings.
Pros:
- Availability: Found in most pet stores.
- Easy to Store: Can be stored in the refrigerator to slow their growth.
- Easy to Raise: Simple to raise in colonies.
Cons:
- Lower Nutritional Value: Not as nutritious as crickets or roaches.
- Hard Exoskeleton: Can be difficult for some tarantulas to digest.
- Burrowing: Can burrow into the substrate and pupate into beetles.
Feeding Tips:
- Keep mealworms in a container with bran or oatmeal as a substrate.
- Provide a source of moisture, such as a slice of potato or carrot.
- Crush the heads of mealworms before feeding to prevent them from burrowing.
2.4. Superworms (Zophobas morio)
Superworms are larger than mealworms and are a good option for feeding larger tarantulas. However, they should be used with caution due to their strong mandibles.
Pros:
- Size: Larger size is suitable for larger tarantulas.
- Nutritional Value: Higher in fat than mealworms.
Cons:
- Biting: Can bite and injure or even kill a tarantula.
- Hard Exoskeleton: Can be difficult to digest.
- Difficult to Breed: More challenging to breed than mealworms.
Feeding Tips:
- Always crush the heads of superworms before feeding to prevent them from biting.
- Offer superworms sparingly due to their high fat content.
2.5. Waxworms (Galleria mellonella)
Waxworms are the larvae of wax moths and are high in fat. They are best used as an occasional treat rather than a staple food source.
Pros:
- Palatability: Highly palatable and readily accepted by most tarantulas.
- Soft Body: Easy to digest.
Cons:
- High Fat Content: Can lead to obesity if fed too frequently.
- Low Nutritional Value: Not a balanced source of nutrients.
Feeding Tips:
- Offer waxworms as an occasional treat, no more than once a month.
2.6. Other Feeder Options
Besides the common feeder insects, there are several other options to diversify your tarantula’s diet:
- Earthworms: Nutritious and readily accepted by many tarantulas.
- Hornworms: Soft-bodied and high in calcium, but can be expensive.
- Locusts: Popular in the UK, but not as readily available in other regions.
- Crickets: A readily available food source for tarantulas. According to research by Texas A&M University, crickets provide essential nutrients for tarantulas, promoting healthy growth and molting. However, they can be noisy and require proper housing.
3. Determining the Right Feeding Schedule
The frequency and amount of food your tarantula needs depend on several factors, including its age, size, species, and overall health.
3.1. Feeding Frequency Based on Life Stage
Spiderlings (Slings):
- Frequency: Every 2-3 days, or as often as they will eat.
- Prey Size: Small prey items, such as pinhead crickets, fruit flies, or pre-killed mealworms.
- Rationale: Spiderlings are growing rapidly and need frequent meals to support their development.
Juveniles:
- Frequency: Once or twice a week.
- Prey Size: Medium-sized prey items, such as small crickets or roach nymphs.
- Rationale: Growth rate slows down, and they require less frequent feeding.
Adults:
- Frequency: Once every 1-4 weeks, depending on the species and size of the prey.
- Prey Size: Larger prey items, such as adult crickets, dubia roaches, or occasional small vertebrates.
- Rationale: Adults have a slower metabolism and do not need to eat as frequently.
3.2. Species-Specific Feeding Habits
Different tarantula species have different feeding habits and appetites. Some species are voracious eaters, while others are more finicky.
Examples:
- Grammostola (e.g., Rosea, Pulchra): These species are known for their slow metabolism and can go long periods without eating. Feed them sparingly, about once a month.
- Theraphosa (e.g., Blondi): These are large, fast-growing tarantulas with a hearty appetite. They need to be fed more frequently, about once a week.
- Pamphobeteus: These species require larger and more frequent meals due to their active nature and growth rate.
3.3. How to Monitor Your Tarantula’s Appetite
- Observe: Pay attention to your tarantula’s behavior and appearance. A healthy tarantula should have a plump abdomen and be active and alert.
- Pre-Molt: Tarantulas often refuse food when they are in pre-molt. Do not be alarmed if your tarantula stops eating for a few weeks before molting.
- Adjust: Adjust the feeding schedule based on your tarantula’s individual needs. If it is losing weight, increase the frequency or size of the prey. If it is becoming overweight, reduce the frequency or size of the prey.
4. Proper Feeding Techniques
Feeding your tarantula may seem simple, but there are a few techniques that can make the process easier and safer for both you and your pet.
4.1. Live vs. Pre-Killed Prey
- Live Prey: Most tarantula keepers prefer to feed live prey to stimulate their tarantula’s hunting instincts. However, live prey can pose a risk if left unattended in the enclosure.
- Pre-Killed Prey: Pre-killed prey is a safer option, especially for spiderlings or tarantulas that are not aggressive hunters. To pre-kill prey, simply crush its head before offering it to your tarantula.
4.2. Using Tongs
Using tongs to feed your tarantula is recommended for several reasons:
- Safety: Prevents accidental bites.
- Control: Allows you to control the prey item and ensure that your tarantula sees it.
- Hygiene: Keeps your hands clean.
4.3. Feeding Steps
- Prepare: Gather the prey item and tongs.
- Open: Carefully open the tarantula’s enclosure.
- Present: Use the tongs to present the prey item to your tarantula.
- Observe: Watch as your tarantula captures and eats the prey.
- Remove: If the tarantula does not eat the prey within 24 hours, remove it from the enclosure.
4.4. How To Feed Tiny Slings?
For very small slings (1/4-3/8″ or so) small food can be very difficult to come by. Although B. lateralis roach nymphs can be a good alternative due to their small size, they are not always easy to come by. In these instances, it may be necessary to pre-kill and cut up a larger prey item into a more appropriate size. Spiderlings will scavenge feed, so this is a great way to make sure that they can eat as much as they want while not putting them in danger by dropping in an overly-large prey item.
Although this may sound a bit gross (and, well, it really is!), cutting the leg off of a larger cricket, or cutting a meal worm into smaller pieces is a perfect way to feed your tiny sling. Just carefully place the food chunk in the enclosure and, if the sling is hungry, it will find it. Just be sure to remove any excess the next day, as they may not consume the whole piece. If they don’t finish the item, you might want to wait several days before offering another item.
5. Addressing Common Feeding Issues
Even with the best care, you may encounter some feeding issues with your tarantula. Here are some common problems and how to address them.
5.1. Tarantula Refusing Food
A tarantula refusing food is a common concern for keepers. There are several reasons why this may occur:
- Pre-Molt: This is the most common reason. Tarantulas will often stop eating a few weeks before molting.
- Stress: Stress from a recent move, improper enclosure conditions, or handling can cause a tarantula to refuse food.
- Temperature: Temperatures that are too low can slow down a tarantula’s metabolism and reduce its appetite.
- Overfeeding: If you are feeding your tarantula too frequently, it may not be hungry.
- Health Issues: In rare cases, a tarantula may refuse food due to an underlying health issue.
What to Do:
- Wait: If you suspect pre-molt, simply wait and offer food again after the tarantula has molted.
- Check Enclosure Conditions: Ensure that the temperature and humidity are within the appropriate range for your tarantula species.
- Reduce Stress: Minimize handling and provide a secure, comfortable enclosure.
- Adjust Feeding Schedule: Reduce the frequency of feedings if you suspect overfeeding.
- Consult a Vet: If the tarantula continues to refuse food and shows other signs of illness, consult a veterinarian experienced in exotic pets.
5.2. Prey Escaping in the Enclosure
Prey escaping in the enclosure can be a nuisance and potentially harmful to your tarantula.
What to Do:
- Choose Appropriate Prey: Select prey items that are appropriately sized for your tarantula and less likely to escape.
- Disable Prey: Crush the heads of prey items before feeding to prevent them from escaping.
- Use Tongs: Use tongs to control the prey item and ensure that your tarantula sees it.
- Seal Enclosure: Ensure that the enclosure is securely sealed to prevent prey from escaping.
5.3. Mold Growth in the Enclosure
Mold growth can occur in tarantula enclosures due to high humidity and uneaten prey items.
What to Do:
- Remove Uneaten Prey: Regularly remove any uneaten prey items from the enclosure.
- Improve Ventilation: Increase ventilation to reduce humidity levels.
- Replace Substrate: Replace the substrate if mold growth is extensive.
- Use Springtails: Introduce springtails to the enclosure. These small invertebrates feed on mold and help keep the enclosure clean. According to a study by the University of California, springtails are effective in controlling mold growth in terrariums and vivariums.
6. Supplementing Your Tarantula’s Diet
While a varied diet of feeder insects is usually sufficient, supplementing your tarantula’s diet with vitamins and minerals can further enhance its health.
6.1. Calcium and Vitamin D3
Calcium and vitamin D3 are essential for healthy molting and bone development.
How to Supplement:
- Dusting: Dust feeder insects with a calcium and vitamin D3 supplement before feeding them to your tarantula.
- Gut-Loading: Gut-load feeder insects by feeding them a calcium-rich diet before offering them to your tarantula.
6.2. Multivitamins
A multivitamin supplement can help ensure that your tarantula is receiving all the necessary vitamins and minerals.
How to Supplement:
- Dusting: Dust feeder insects with a multivitamin supplement before feeding them to your tarantula.
- Gut-Loading: Gut-load feeder insects by feeding them a multivitamin-rich diet before offering them to your tarantula.
6.3. Commercial Supplements
There are several commercial supplements available specifically formulated for reptiles and amphibians that can be used for tarantulas.
Examples:
- Rep-Cal Calcium with D3: A popular calcium and vitamin D3 supplement.
- Miner-All: A comprehensive mineral supplement.
- Herptivite: A multivitamin supplement.
7. What Not to Feed Your Tarantula
While it is important to provide a varied diet, there are certain foods that should be avoided:
- Wild-Caught Insects: Wild-caught insects may carry parasites or pesticides that can be harmful to your tarantula.
- Vertebrates: Feeding vertebrates such as mice or lizards is generally not recommended due to ethical concerns and the risk of bacterial contamination.
- Processed Foods: Processed foods such as dog food or cat food are not appropriate for tarantulas and can be harmful.
- Toxic Foods: Avoid feeding your tarantula any foods that are known to be toxic to invertebrates, such as chocolate or avocado.
8. Power Feeding: Is It Safe?
Power feeding is the practice of feeding tarantulas frequently and heavily to accelerate their growth. While it can result in faster growth rates, there are potential risks associated with this practice.
8.1. What is Power Feeding?
Power feeding involves providing tarantulas with as much food as they will eat, often multiple times a week, to promote rapid growth.
8.2. Potential Risks
- Reduced Lifespan: Some believe that power feeding can shorten a tarantula’s lifespan by accelerating its metabolism and causing it to mature too quickly.
- Molting Problems: Rapid growth can lead to molting problems, such as incomplete or difficult molts.
- Obesity: Overfeeding can lead to obesity, which can cause health problems.
8.3. Is It Recommended?
Power feeding is generally not recommended for pet tarantulas. It is better to provide a balanced diet and allow your tarantula to grow at a natural pace.
9. The Importance of Hydration
In addition to food, providing your tarantula with a constant source of fresh water is crucial for its health.
9.1. How Tarantulas Drink
Tarantulas absorb moisture through their book lungs and can also drink from a water dish or droplets of water sprayed on the enclosure.
9.2. Providing Water
- Water Dish: Provide a shallow water dish with clean water. Make sure the dish is shallow enough that spiderlings cannot drown.
- Spraying: Mist the enclosure regularly to provide droplets of water for your tarantula to drink.
- Gel Water Crystals: Use gel water crystals as a supplemental source of hydration.
9.3. Humidity
Maintaining the appropriate humidity level in the enclosure is also important for hydration. Different tarantula species have different humidity requirements.
Examples:
- Desert Species: These species require low humidity levels (30-40%).
- Tropical Species: These species require high humidity levels (70-80%).
10. Tarantula Feeding FAQs
10.1. How Long Can a Tarantula Go Without Eating?
Adult tarantulas can go for weeks or even months without eating, especially during pre-molt or colder months. Spiderlings need to eat more frequently, typically every few days.
10.2. Can Tarantulas Eat Pinky Mice?
While some keepers feed their tarantulas pinky mice, it’s generally not recommended due to the high fat content and potential for bacterial contamination. Insects and other invertebrates are more suitable.
10.3. What Do Baby Tarantulas Eat?
Baby tarantulas, or spiderlings, typically eat small insects like pinhead crickets, fruit flies, or pieces of pre-killed mealworms.
10.4. How Can I Tell If My Tarantula Is Overweight?
An overweight tarantula will have a noticeably large abdomen. Reduce the frequency and size of feedings to help it lose weight.
10.5. Is It Normal for a Tarantula to Eat Its Molted Skin?
Yes, it’s normal for tarantulas to consume their molted skin, as it contains valuable nutrients that aid in recovery and hardening of the new exoskeleton.
10.6. What Do I Do If My Tarantula Is Biting the Feeder Insect but Not Eating It?
This behavior could indicate that the tarantula is not hungry or that the feeder insect is too large. Try offering a smaller prey item or waiting a few days before attempting to feed again.
10.7. Can I Feed My Tarantula Insects From My Yard?
It’s best to avoid feeding tarantulas insects from your yard, as they may carry pesticides or parasites. Stick to commercially raised feeder insects for safety.
10.8. How Often Should I Clean My Tarantula’s Water Dish?
Clean your tarantula’s water dish every few days to prevent bacterial growth and ensure the water remains fresh.
10.9. My Tarantula Is Not Eating, and Its Abdomen Looks Shrunken. What Should I Do?
A shrunken abdomen indicates dehydration or starvation. Ensure there is a water source available and try offering a small prey item. If the condition persists, consult a vet.
10.10. What Should I Do If a Cricket Escapes in My Tarantula’s Enclosure?
If a cricket escapes, try to remove it as soon as possible, as it can stress or even harm the tarantula, especially during molting.
Conclusion
Providing the right diet for your pet tarantula is crucial for its health and well-being. By understanding their natural diet, choosing appropriate feeder insects, and following proper feeding techniques, you can ensure that your tarantula thrives in captivity. Remember to monitor your tarantula’s appetite and adjust the feeding schedule as needed, and don’t hesitate to seek advice from experienced keepers or veterinarians if you encounter any issues.
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