Are Ackie Monitors Good Pets? Comprehensive Care Guide

Are Ackie Monitors Good Pets? Yes, ackie monitors are excellent pets for reptile enthusiasts seeking a smaller, manageable monitor lizard. PETS.EDU.VN provides a detailed guide that covers everything from housing to diet, ensuring your ackie monitor thrives in its captive environment. With their engaging personalities and relatively easy care requirements, keeping ackie monitors can be a rewarding experience.

1. Understanding Ackie Monitors as Pets

Ackie monitors, also known as ridge-tailed monitors ( Varanus acanthurus), have surged in popularity as pets in recent years due to their manageable size and captivating personalities. Unlike their larger monitor lizard relatives, ackies remain relatively small, making them suitable for keepers with limited space. This section will cover the benefits of ackie monitors as pets and what makes them unique.

1.1. Benefits of Choosing Ackie Monitors

Ackie monitors offer several advantages for reptile enthusiasts:

• Manageable Size: Adult ackies typically reach 24-30 inches in length, making them easier to house compared to larger monitor species.
• Captivating Personality: Ackies are known for their inquisitive and engaging personalities, often forming strong bonds with their owners.
• Captive-Bred Availability: The ackies available in the pet trade are primarily captive-bred, which reduces the risks associated with wild-caught specimens.
• Color Variation: With regional variants displaying red and yellow hues, ackies offer visual variety for keepers.
• Moderate Care Requirements: While ackies have specific needs, they are generally considered easier to care for than some other reptile species.

1.2. Unique Traits of Ackie Monitors

Ackie monitors possess unique characteristics that set them apart:

• Intelligence: Ackies are intelligent lizards that can learn to recognize their keepers and respond to training.
• Diurnal Behavior: As diurnal reptiles, ackies are active during the day, making them more visible and engaging pets.
• Fossorial Tendencies: Ackies are natural burrowers, requiring a deep substrate layer to satisfy their digging instincts.
• Social Potential: With proper socialization, ackies can become quite tame and enjoy interacting with their owners.
• Relatively Docile Temperament: While individual personalities vary, ackies are generally known for their docile temperament.

1.3. Challenges of Keeping Ackie Monitors

While ackie monitors make great pets, there are some challenges that owners need to know about:

• Specific Environmental Needs: Ackies require high temperatures, UVB lighting, and specific humidity levels, which can be challenging to maintain.
• Dietary Requirements: Ackies are primarily insectivores, requiring a varied diet of live insects.
• Space Requirements: Although they are smaller than other monitors, ackies still need a large enclosure with plenty of space to explore and burrow.
• Veterinary Care: Finding a veterinarian experienced in reptile care can be challenging in some areas.
• Potential for Bites: While generally docile, ackies can bite if they feel threatened, so caution is necessary when handling them.

2. Finding a Healthy Ackie Monitor

Sourcing your ackie monitor from a reputable breeder or supplier is crucial for ensuring you get a healthy, well-adjusted animal. This section will cover where to find ackie monitors and what to look for when selecting one.

2.1. Reputable Breeders

Purchasing from a reputable breeder offers several advantages:

• Health Guarantee: Reputable breeders typically offer a health guarantee, ensuring the ackie is free from parasites and diseases.
• Genetic Background: Breeders can provide information about the ackie’s lineage, which can be helpful for understanding its potential health and temperament.
• Expert Advice: Breeders can offer valuable advice on husbandry and care specific to their ackie monitors.
• Captive-Bred: Getting ackies from breeders ensures that the animals are captive-bred, so they are better adjusted to living in captivity.

You can locate reputable breeders through online reptile communities, reptile shows, and referrals from experienced keepers.

2.2. Reptile Specialty Pet Shops

Local reptile specialty pet shops can be a good source for ackie monitors. These shops typically have knowledgeable staff who can answer your questions and provide guidance. Here’s why they can be a reliable option:

• Visual Assessment: You can visually inspect the ackie before purchase, assessing its body condition and activity levels.
• Staff Knowledge: Staff can provide information on the ackie’s history, feeding habits, and temperament.
• Support Local Business: Purchasing from a local shop supports the reptile keeping community in your area.

2.3. Reptile Expos

Reptile expos bring together breeders, suppliers, and enthusiasts in one location. This provides an opportunity to:

• Compare Ackies: You can compare ackies from different breeders and suppliers, selecting the one that best meets your needs.
• Negotiate Prices: Prices at reptile expos can be competitive, potentially saving you money.
• Network with Keepers: You can network with experienced keepers and learn from their insights.

2.4. Visual Assessment

Regardless of where you acquire your ackie, it’s essential to visually assess its health and condition. Look for these signs of a healthy ackie:

• Alert and Active: A healthy ackie should be alert, responsive, and active in its enclosure.
• Good Body Condition: The ackie should have a healthy weight, with no visible ribs or spine.
• Clear Eyes and Nostrils: The eyes and nostrils should be clear and free from discharge.
• Clean Vent: The vent (anal opening) should be clean and free from swelling or discharge.
• Healthy Skin: The skin should be smooth, with no signs of lesions, blisters, or shedding problems.
• Strong Grip: The ackie should have a strong grip and be able to move around its enclosure easily.

2.5. Veterinary Examination

Ideally, the breeder or supplier should bring the ackie to a qualified reptile veterinarian for an exam before purchase. A veterinary exam can:

• Confirm Health: The veterinarian can confirm the ackie is free from parasites, infections, and other health issues.
• Provide Baseline Information: The exam provides baseline information about the ackie’s health, which can be helpful for future veterinary care.
• Offer Recommendations: The veterinarian can offer recommendations on diet, husbandry, and preventative care.

If a pre-purchase veterinary exam is not possible, schedule an appointment with a reptile veterinarian soon after acquiring your ackie.

3. Creating the Ideal Ackie Monitor Enclosure

Creating the right enclosure is essential for the health and well-being of your ackie monitor. Ackies need a spacious, secure, and well-maintained environment to thrive. PETS.EDU.VN recommends considering these factors when setting up your ackie monitor’s enclosure.

3.1. Enclosure Size

Ackie monitors need substantial space to explore and exhibit natural behaviors. While enclosure size can vary, consider these minimum dimensions:

• Minimum Enclosure Size: 4′ x 2′ x 2′ (120cm x 60cm x 60cm)
• Ideal Enclosure Size: 5′ x 2.5′ x 3′ (150cm x 75cm x 90cm)

Larger enclosures are always better, as they provide more opportunities for enrichment and exercise.

3.2. Enclosure Type and Materials

The enclosure should be made of materials that can retain heat and humidity. Ideal materials include:

• PVC: PVC is lightweight, durable, and easy to clean.
• Wood: Wood provides good insulation but needs to be treated to prevent rotting.
• Glass: Glass is not ideal as it doesn’t retain heat and humidity well.

It is better to cover the sides of the enclosure as this can help acclimate a skittish Ackie to its new home and reduce stress.

3.3. Solid vs. Screen-Top Enclosures

There are pros and cons to both solid and screen-top enclosures:

• Solid Enclosures:

  • Pros: Better heat and humidity retention, require fewer bulbs.
  • Cons: Reduce climbing space, especially in shorter enclosures.

• Screen-Top Enclosures:

  • Pros: Provide more opportunities for climbing and substrate.
  • Cons: Lose heat and humidity more easily, require modification to retain moisture.

3.4. Enrichment Items

Enrichment items are essential for stimulating your ackie’s mind and body. Consider adding these items to your enclosure:

• Slaterock: Slaterock holds heat well and makes an excellent basking spot.
• Climbing Branches: Climbing branches provide enrichment and exercise.
• Cork Tubes: Cork tubes serve as both climbing structures and hiding places.
• Rock Ledges/Climbable Backgrounds: These add dimension to the enclosure and provide climbing opportunities.
• Multiple Hides: Hides are essential for providing a sense of security.
• Water Bowl: A water bowl deep enough for soaking but heavy enough not to be flipped over is essential.

3.5. Substrate Depth and Type

As fossorial animals, ackies need a deep substrate layer to burrow. Aim for a minimum of one foot (30cm) of substrate. The best substrate for ackies is a mixture of:

• Organic Topsoil: Provides a natural digging medium.
• Washed Play Sand: Helps with drainage and prevents compaction.

The ratio of topsoil to sand can vary, but the top layer should remain dry, and the deeper layers moist. Digital probe thermometers/hygrometers buried into the substrate can be used to monitor substrate humidity. Cycling the substrate to reduce the buildup of fungi/bacteria should be performed regularly.

3.6. Bioactive Setups

Converting your ackie enclosure to a bioactive setup can offer several benefits:

• Naturalistic Environment: Bioactive setups mimic the ackie’s natural habitat, promoting natural behaviors.
• Waste Decomposition: A cleanup crew (CUC) of invertebrates breaks down waste, reducing the need for manual cleaning.
• Nutrient Cycling: Live plants absorb nutrients from the soil, improving air quality and providing additional enrichment.

3.7. Plants and Cleanup Crew

When choosing plants for your bioactive enclosure, ensure they are non-toxic. Good options include:

• Grasses: Mundo grass is a great addition, as long as it’s not too close to the basking spots.

A variety of invertebrates can be used for the cleanup crew (CUC), including:

• Dwarf White Isopods: Excellent at breaking down waste and detritus.
• Springtails: Control mold and fungi in the enclosure.
• Super worms: The beetles will propagate uncontrollably and can overrun an enclosure.

4. Maintaining Proper Temperature and Lighting

Maintaining proper temperature and lighting is vital for the health and well-being of your ackie monitor. Ackies need a basking spot, ambient temperatures, and UVB lighting to thrive. PETS.EDU.VN stresses that correct temperature and lighting will mirror the conditions they would experience in their natural Australian habitat.

4.1. Basking Spot Temperature

Ackies need a very hot basking spot to regulate their body temperature. An ideal basking spot should provide a temperature gradient, allowing the ackie to choose its preferred temperature. Ways to achieve this include:

• Rete’s Stack: A stack of rocks or plywood with spaces in between.
• Slaterock: Slaterock holds heat well and provides a flat surface for basking.
• Wooden Branches: Branches of varying distances from the heat source.

The temperature range of the basking spot should be between 120-150 degrees F (49-66 degrees C), and monitored with an infrared temperature gun.

Ackies are intermittent baskers and every ackie will have a different preferred basking spot temperature, thus you need to monitor your animal’s basking behaviors to ensure you have the appropriate thermal gradients. If your Ackie is basking for prolonged periods of time or avoids the basking spot, you would need to increase or decrease the basking spot temperatures, respectively.

4.2. Ambient Temperature

In their native ranges, ackies experience temperatures ranging from 59-90 degrees F (15-32 degrees C). In the enclosure, recommended ambient temperatures should range from:

• Warm Side: 80-85 degrees F (27-29 degrees C), with areas closer to the basking spot reaching 90 degrees F (32 degrees C).
• Cool Side: 75-80 degrees F (24-27 degrees C).

Monitor ambient temperatures with multiple digital thermometers/hygrometers on both the warm and cool sides of the enclosure.

4.3. UV Supplementation

As diurnal reptiles, ackies require ultraviolet (UV) supplementation for vitamin D3 synthesis and calcium absorption. UV supplementation can be provided with:

• LED Tubes: LED tubes provide broad coverage of UV light.
• Fluorescent Bulbs: Fluorescent bulbs are an affordable option for UV supplementation.
• Mercury Vapor Bulbs: Mercury vapor bulbs provide both heat and UV light.

Provide areas where your ackie can escape the UV lighting to prevent overexposure. UV bulbs must be replaced annually to ensure optimal output.

4.4. LED Bulbs

In addition to UV supplementation, LED bulbs are crucial for illuminating the enclosure. Heat bulbs and UV lighting alone may be insufficient to fully illuminate the enclosure. Regardless of the light fixtures used in an enclosure, Ackies should be provided a 12 hour day/night cycle to promote healthy circadian rhythms and natural environmental cycling.

4.5. Monitoring Temperature and Lighting

Regularly monitor temperature and lighting levels in the enclosure to ensure they are within the appropriate ranges. Use:

• Infrared Temperature Gun: To measure basking spot temperatures.
• Digital Thermometers/Hygrometers: To monitor ambient temperatures and humidity levels.
• UVB Meter: To measure UVB output from the bulbs.

Adjust temperature and lighting as needed to maintain optimal conditions for your ackie.

5. Maintaining Proper Humidity Levels

While ackies live in habitats with low ambient humidity, they require higher humidity levels in their burrows and microclimates. Chronic exposure to low humidity levels can lead to dehydration and renal disease.

5.1. Humidity Gradients

Strive to maintain humidity gradients of:

• Daytime Humidity: 50-80% RH
• Substrate and Nighttime Humidity: Approaching greater than 90% RH

Monitor humidity with multiple digital thermometers/hygrometers on the warm and cool sides of the enclosure.

5.2. Maintaining Humidity

Humidity can be maintained with:

• Deep Substrate Layer: A deep substrate layer retains moisture and provides a humid burrowing environment.
• Water Bowls: Position water bowls close to the basking spot to increase evaporation and humidity.
• Live Plants: Live plants release moisture into the air through transpiration.
• Substrate Cycling: Regularly cycling the substrate helps maintain moisture levels.
• Misting: Occasional misting can increase humidity, especially during shedding.

5.3. Warm Water Soaks

To help with shedding and promote additional hydration, provide a warm water soak once a week for 15 to 20 minutes. The water should not extend beyond the top of the ackie’s feet, and baths should be started at shorter durations to gradually acclimate the ackie to bathing.

6. Feeding Your Ackie Monitor

Ackies are primarily insectivores in the wild, with frequent consumption of smaller lizards. A captive diet should replicate similar dietary proportions, with the bulk of the diet consisting of insects.

6.1. Prey Items

Common prey items for ackie monitors include:

• Grasshoppers/Locusts: A staple prey item.
• Roach Species: Dubia, Discoid, Red Runner, etc.
• Beetles and Their Larvae: Mealworms, superworms, etc.
• Other Insects: Crickets, Black Soldier Fly Larvae, Silkworms, Hornworms.

Insects such as super worms and waxworms should be avoided due to excessive fat intake- I often will substitute these insects for giant mealworms.

6.2. Supplementation

All insects should be:

• Gut Loaded: Fed with a high-calcium diet before offering them to your ackie.
• Calcium Supplementation: Supplemented with calcium without D3 at every meal.
• Multivitamin Supplementation: Supplemented with a multivitamin with active Vitamin A once a week.

6.3. Non-Invertebrate Food Items

Non-invertebrate food items such as scrambled egg, mice, chicks, and ground turkey should not be offered. These foods are high in dietary fat and can lead to obesity if offered in sufficient quantities. If offered, these should only be given as a very rare treat and heavily supplemented.

6.4. Feeding Frequency

Feeding frequency varies depending on the ackie’s age:

• Hatchlings: Daily
• Juveniles (6 Months): Every other day to three times a week
• Adults (1 Year Onward): Two to three times a week

6.5. Food Consumption

A common feeding recommendation on the amount of prey items to offer per meal is as many as the animal will take in a given period. This is incorrect, however, studies show that varanids actually do not have different metabolic rates compared to other lizards (5). Studies on wild Ackies found their fresh food consumption rate (the amount of food matter they take in a day) to be 13.2g/kg/day (3). Thus, a 100 gram Ackie would only require 1.32 grams of food per feeding to maintain itself. This practice of weighing out meals can help reduce the risk of your Ackie developing diseases such as obesity and gout.

6.6. Insect Colonies

Starting insect colonies are an ideal and financially conscious option to provide the insects your Ackie requires through its different life stages. A discoid roach colony can be maintained in a butterfly cage and maintenance food in the form of romaine lettuce, bell peppers, and other vegetable scraps to ensure the insects are healthy and propagating.

7. Interacting with Your Ackie Monitor

One of the most rewarding aspects of keeping an ackie monitor is interacting with it. Ackies are intelligent lizards that can form strong bonds with their owners.

7.1. Building Trust

Trust must be established before you can handle your animal, especially as a baby. One of the best methods to socialize your monitor is Kevin McCurley’s “Threads of Trust” approach. Make sure that your lizard knows that your presence in the enclosure is as natural as any of the branches or rocks. Place the enclosure in a room with moderate traffic. This will help the Ackie adjust to human presence.

7.2. Socialization

Let your ackie adjust to its new enclosure for at least four to five days before interacting with it. During this adjustment phase, when putting food in the enclosure, use tongs to build the association between tongs and food. Once your Ackie is well adjusted, start tong feeding and simply laying your hand in the enclosure. As you do this more, slowly move your hand towards the monitor with your palm facing down. Avoid eye contact if possible to minimize stress. Over time, this desensitizes the Ackie to touch and they often will climb on your hand. Ensure that your monitor is making nice, long tongue flicks to see if they are curious. At this point, many Ackies will then start to wander and explore the enclosure even with your presence in the enclosure. The monitor will eventually take its first steps on your arm and then out of the enclosure. Do not make any sudden movements and simply support your monitor as it crawls onto you. If it jumps off your shoulder, that’s okay, simply pick it up gently and allow it to walk back into the enclosure.

7.3. Handling

People will often say if trust is broken, you need to restart the whole process of socializing. This is not true. If your Ackie gets spooked, let it go into a safe space and will either wait in the enclosure until it comes out of its hiding spot or will end that interaction and start again at a later time.

7.4. Individual Personalities

Every monitor is their own individual- each Ackie you’ve owned has had a unique personality despite being the same species. Some Ackies may never tame down fully, some may take a lot longer than others, and some may not need much work at all. Go at your Ackie’s pace and do not rush it.

7.5. Bites

Be mindful that although small, Ackies can still deliver a powerful bite and often will not let go willingly. These bites are often mistaking fingers for food or if they feel threatened. Appropriately reading your Ackie’s body language and not triggering your monitor’s prey drive (pulling fingers away quickly, wiggling fingers, etc) can help reduce this significantly.

8. Common Health Issues in Ackie Monitors

Like all reptiles, ackie monitors are susceptible to certain health issues. Recognizing the signs of illness and seeking prompt veterinary care is essential for maintaining your ackie’s health.

8.1. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is a common health issue in captive reptiles, including ackie monitors. It is caused by a deficiency of calcium and vitamin D3, which are essential for bone development and maintenance.

Causes:

• Inadequate calcium in the diet
• Insufficient UVB lighting
• Improper calcium-to-phosphorus ratio in the diet

Symptoms:

• Lethargy
• Weakness
• Swollen limbs
• Tremors
• Soft or deformed bones
• Fractures

Prevention and Treatment:

• Provide a calcium-rich diet with appropriate supplementation
• Ensure adequate UVB lighting for vitamin D3 synthesis
• Correct the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio in the diet
• Consult a veterinarian for calcium and vitamin D3 injections if necessary

8.2. Respiratory Infections

Respiratory infections are another common health issue in ackie monitors, often caused by inadequate temperature and humidity levels in the enclosure.

Causes:

• Low temperatures
• High humidity
• Poor ventilation
• Stress

Symptoms:

• Lethargy
• Loss of appetite
• Nasal discharge
• Open-mouth breathing
• Wheezing

Prevention and Treatment:

• Maintain proper temperature and humidity levels in the enclosure
• Ensure good ventilation
• Reduce stress by providing adequate hiding places
• Consult a veterinarian for antibiotic treatment

8.3. Parasitic Infections

Ackie monitors can be infected with various internal and external parasites, which can cause a range of health problems.

Causes:

• Exposure to contaminated environments
• Ingestion of infected prey items
• Contact with infected animals

Symptoms:

• Lethargy
• Weight loss
• Loss of appetite
• Diarrhea
• Vomiting
• Skin irritation
• Visible parasites on the skin

Prevention and Treatment:

• Maintain a clean enclosure
• Use captive-bred prey items
• Quarantine new animals before introducing them to the existing collection
• Consult a veterinarian for antiparasitic treatment

8.4. Skin Infections

Skin infections can occur in ackie monitors due to poor hygiene, injuries, or underlying health conditions.

Causes:

• Dirty enclosure
• Injuries
• Bacterial or fungal infections

Symptoms:

• Redness
• Swelling
• Pus-filled lesions
• Scale discoloration
• Difficulty shedding

Prevention and Treatment:

• Maintain a clean enclosure
• Treat injuries promptly
• Consult a veterinarian for antibiotic or antifungal treatment

8.5. Obesity

Obesity is a growing concern in captive ackie monitors due to overfeeding and lack of exercise.

Causes:

• Overfeeding
• Lack of exercise
• High-fat diet

Symptoms:

• Excessive weight gain
• Difficulty moving
• Fat pads in the neck and abdomen
• Lethargy

Prevention and Treatment:

• Feed a balanced diet with appropriate portion sizes
• Provide ample space for exercise
• Encourage activity with enrichment items
• Consult a veterinarian for weight management strategies

9. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Ackie Monitors

Here are some frequently asked questions about keeping ackie monitors as pets:

1. What is the lifespan of an ackie monitor?

Ackie monitors can live for 15-20 years in captivity with proper care.

2. How often should I handle my ackie monitor?

Handle your ackie monitor regularly to build trust and maintain its tameness. Start with short handling sessions and gradually increase the duration as your ackie becomes more comfortable.

3. What do ackie monitors eat?

Ackie monitors are primarily insectivores, feeding on a variety of insects such as crickets, roaches, mealworms, and grasshoppers.

4. How big do ackie monitors get?

Adult ackie monitors typically reach 24-30 inches in length.

5. Do ackie monitors need UVB lighting?

Yes, ackie monitors need UVB lighting for vitamin D3 synthesis and calcium absorption.

6. What is the ideal temperature for an ackie monitor enclosure?

The ideal temperature gradient for an ackie monitor enclosure is 80-85 degrees F (27-29 degrees C) on the warm side, with a basking spot of 120-150 degrees F (49-66 degrees C).

7. How often should I clean my ackie monitor enclosure?

Spot clean the enclosure daily, removing feces and uneaten food. Perform a full substrate change every 1-2 months.

8. Do ackie monitors need a water bowl?

Yes, ackie monitors need a water bowl for drinking and soaking. The water bowl should be deep enough for the ackie to soak in but heavy enough not to be flipped over.

9. Are ackie monitors good pets for beginners?

Ackie monitors can be good pets for beginners who are willing to do their research and provide the proper care.

10. Where can I find a reputable ackie monitor breeder?

You can find reputable ackie monitor breeders through online reptile communities, reptile shows, and referrals from experienced keepers.

10. Conclusion

Ackie monitors are captivating reptiles that can make rewarding pets for experienced keepers and dedicated beginners alike. By providing the proper enclosure, temperature, lighting, humidity, diet, and socialization, you can ensure your ackie monitor thrives in captivity. At PETS.EDU.VN, we are committed to providing you with the information and resources you need to care for your ackie monitor.

10.1. PETS.EDU.VN Resources

For more in-depth information on ackie monitor care, visit PETS.EDU.VN. You’ll find articles on:

• Advanced ackie monitor husbandry techniques
• Diagnosing and treating common ackie monitor health issues
• Building a bioactive ackie monitor enclosure
• Training and socializing your ackie monitor

10.2. Call to Action

Ready to take the next step in ackie monitor ownership? Visit PETS.EDU.VN today to explore our comprehensive guides, connect with experienced keepers, and find the resources you need to provide the best possible care for your ackie monitor.

Contact us:

Address: 789 Paw Lane, Petville, CA 91234, United States

WhatsApp: +1 555-987-6543

Website: pets.edu.vn

References

1. King , D. (2008). The Diet and Foraging Strategy of Varanus acanthurus. Biawak, 2(1), 11–17. D
2. Doody, J. S., McHenry, C. R., & Clulow, S. (2017). Varanus acanthurus (Spiny-tailed Monitor Lizard). Communal nesting and commensalism. Herpetological Review, 48(1), 203–203.
3. Dryden, G., Green, B., King, D., & Losos, J. (1990). Water and energy turnover in a small monitor lizard, Varanus acanthurus. Wildlife Research, 17(6), 641–646. https://doi.org/10.1071/wr9900641
4. Pavón-Vázquez, C. J., Esquerré, D., Fitch, A. J., Maryan, B., Doughty, P., Donnellan, S. C., & Keogh, J. S. (2022). Between a rock and a dry place: Phylogenomics, biogeography, and systematics of Ridge-tailed monitors (squamata: Varanidae: Varanus acanthurus complex). Molecular Phylogenetics and Evolution, 173, 107516. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ympev.2022.107516
5. Thompson, G. G., & Withers, P. C. (1997). Standard and maximal metabolic rates of Goannas (Squamata: Varanidae). Physiological Zoology, 70(3), 307–323. https://doi.org/10.1086/639605