Peter Brodbeck Lindbergh, born on November 23, 1944, and sadly passed away on September 3, 2019, was a Polish-born German fashion photographer who left an indelible mark on the world of photography. Celebrated for his distinctive black-and-white cinematic portraits, Peter Lindbergh rejected excessive retouching and championed a more natural and authentic representation of beauty, particularly in women. This interview, conducted before his untimely death in September 2019, delves into Lindbergh’s evolving perception of beauty and his revolutionary impact on the fashion industry.
The Evolving Vision of Beauty According to Peter Lindbergh
When asked if his perception of beauty had changed over the years, Peter Lindbergh affirmed this evolution. He reflected on how his appreciation for beauty had deepened, noting that women he found beautiful decades ago still held that allure for him. Crucially, Lindbergh emphasized his long-standing aversion to heavy makeup, stating his preference for stripping away artifice to reveal the true person underneath. This core philosophy remained consistent throughout his career, yet his understanding of beauty’s nuances matured.
What shifted for Peter Lindbergh was the realization that beauty transcends youth. While acknowledging that he photographed young models early in his career, he developed a profound appreciation for the beauty of age and experience. He cited Charlotte Rampling as a prime example, marveling at her magnificent beauty in her seventies, a beauty that no teenager could rival. For Lindbergh, Rampling, untouched by cosmetic procedures, embodied a rare and captivating authenticity, carrying her life story etched onto her face.
“The face is meant to express something, that’s what it’s there for; it’s basically witness of a situation or an emotion.” – Peter Lindbergh
This sentiment resonated with Charlotte Rampling’s own philosophy of embracing age. Her belief in allowing oneself to age naturally, particularly as an actor, to reap extraordinary rewards, aligned perfectly with Peter Lindbergh’s artistic vision. He viewed tampering with one’s face as tragic, especially in portrait photography. Lindbergh openly criticized the excessive use of Photoshop and retouching, lamenting its detrimental impact on authentic representation.
Navigating Retouching in the Industry
Peter Lindbergh acknowledged the unavoidable nature of retouching in certain commercial contexts, particularly in makeup advertisements. He admitted to compromising to some extent to navigate the industry’s demands, drawing a line at refusing work entirely and living a life of extreme austerity. However, he also revealed his efforts to advise clients against excessive retouching, advocating for alternative approaches that preserved the subject’s natural essence. Lindbergh recognized a gradual shift in the industry, albeit slow, towards less drastic retouching. He noted a positive change in clients no longer erasing every perceived imperfection, understanding that the face’s expressiveness is paramount. For Peter Lindbergh, the face is a canvas for emotions and experiences, and diminishing its expressiveness, especially in actors, was a dangerous trend.
Photographing Actors vs. Models: Peter Lindbergh’s Perspective
Peter Lindbergh highlighted the distinct challenges in photographing actors compared to professional models. Models, he explained, are trained to perform for the camera, engaging directly with the lens. Actors, conversely, are trained to disregard the camera, a fundamental difference that impacted Lindbergh’s approach. He noted that even seasoned actors like Nicole Kidman faced the challenge of shedding their roles and being authentically present in front of his camera. Lindbergh emphasized that photographing even divas required composure and a calm demeanor, avoiding anger or unnecessary fuss.
Composure was a crucial element in Peter Lindbergh’s working style. He illustrated this with an anecdote about continuing to shoot even in unfavorable lighting conditions, patiently waiting for the subject to recognize and address the issue themselves. This approach, he explained, fostered self-awareness in his subjects rather than treating them as “remote-controlled dolls.” Lindbergh criticized photographers who micromanaged every pose and expression, believing it created robotic and inauthentic images.
Peter Lindbergh and the Revolution in Women’s Representation
Peter Lindbergh‘s photography played a pivotal role in reshaping the perception of women in fashion and advertising. While he maintained that his primary focus was always on photography itself rather than political activism, he acknowledged his rejection of the prevailing image of women in the industry. He found the “proxy-women,” styled and controlled by men, to be uninspiring and preferred to capture women who were autonomous and spoke for themselves. He drew inspiration from his art school peers, who embodied a natural, unpretentious style, often wearing simple T-shirts rather than elaborate designer gowns.
This vision translated into his iconic photographs of models in simple white shirts. Initially, Peter Lindbergh faced resistance, with clients rejecting his alternative images. However, he persevered and found platforms for his vision. The subsequent success of these images and the models he photographed underscored the pent-up demand for a shift in perception. Within a remarkably short period, these images and models became ubiquitous, rendering the old paradigms obsolete. Peter Lindbergh spearheaded a revolution in fashion photography.
“The revolution came to an end fairly quickly when the industry discovered these models for itself. The commercial world that they had broken free from had conquered them back.” – Peter Lindbergh
However, Peter Lindbergh observed that this revolutionary period was relatively short-lived. The fashion industry, initially resistant, eventually embraced these new models, integrating them back into the commercial machinery they had initially challenged. The supermodel era, while groundbreaking, became another trend. This shift paved the way for the next wave of photographic innovation, exemplified by photographers like Jürgen Teller and other British photographers of the late 1990s. Lindbergh noted a stark contrast in approach, with these photographers often employing a more “brutalized” aesthetic, which he found overly stylized and less authentic than his own philosophy.
The Supermodel Era: Who Benefited Most?
Reflecting on the supermodel era, Peter Lindbergh posited that the supermodels themselves benefited more from the phenomenon he helped initiate. He recounted his own attempts to introduce narrative elements into his work around 1990 but found that the supermodels themselves became the story, overshadowing any other narrative ambitions. It wasn’t until the supermodel craze began to wane around 2000 that Peter Lindbergh felt he could fully explore narrative photography again, initiating projects like his “Mars invasion stories.” He described this period as a time when photographers had to work harder and could finally reclaim their creative agency.
Peter Lindbergh‘s legacy extends far beyond capturing iconic images. He challenged conventional beauty standards, championed authenticity, and profoundly influenced the course of fashion photography. His work continues to inspire and resonate, reminding us of the enduring power of natural beauty and genuine expression.
