“In truth, I would have to say that I probably have pursued this career as an excuse to overeat,” the influential food critic Mimi Sheraton confessed in a 1987 interview. This sentiment, on the complexities of being a restaurant critic, resonates deeply with Pete Wells, the long-time restaurant critic for The New York Times, as he reflects on his own journey and announces his departure from the coveted role. Wells, known for his sharp wit and insightful reviews, reveals a personal evolution in his relationship with food and his professional identity, culminating in a decision to step away from the demanding world of restaurant criticism.
Initially, Wells didn’t see himself in the same overindulgent boat as Sheraton. However, over time, he came to understand the connection. He describes relentlessly eating his way through the city as a necessary, if personally taxing, method to truly excel in his position. For Pete Wells, this wasn’t about personal gluttony but about leveling the playing field within the New York City dining scene. He recognized the inherent advantage that well-funded, high-profile establishments possessed, easily capturing attention and media coverage. Wells saw his role as crucial in highlighting the diverse and often overlooked culinary gems scattered across the boroughs – from the soul food spots in Stapleton to Palestinian kitchens in Bay Ridge and Ensenadan aguachile specialists in Jackson Heights. His mission was to ensure these important, less-privileged restaurants received the recognition they deserved, venturing out so that no culinary treasure would be missed.
The turning point for Pete Wells came unexpectedly during a period of recovery from a hernia repair in May. Forced to take two weeks away from his constant restaurant explorations, Wells experienced a profound shift in perspective. In the days following his operation, appetite was absent, replaced by simple nourishment like soup and salads. Stripped of the demands of menus, dining companions, and review deadlines, Pete Wells began to eat according to his body’s needs and desires, nothing more, nothing less. This period of physical recuperation led to mental and emotional clarity. He rediscovered the simple pleasures of restful sleep and engaged wakefulness. Long walks became about exploration and well-being, not just the pursuit of the next bakery. It was during these quiet, reflective weeks that the fundamental realization dawned: “I am not my job.”
This revelation echoed a piece of advice Pete Wells received early in his tenure at The Times in 2006. A fellow reporter cautioned him against becoming overly entwined with his professional identity, using the metaphor of a “rented tux” to describe any position at the prestigious newspaper – temporary, borrowed, not inherently defining. While Wells acknowledged the wisdom at the time, the true meaning didn’t fully resonate until this year.
Now, Pete Wells feels it is time to return the tux. He humorously notes the alterations the tuxedo has undergone to accommodate his professional demands – “I’ve had the trousers let out a few inches” – a physical manifestation of the job’s impact. Yet, he acknowledges the reversibility of these changes, “but a tailor can take them in again.” Even the metaphorical “stain on the jacket,” described as “just pork fat,” is embraced as “character,” a testament to the rich and immersive experiences of his career. With this graceful and insightful reflection, Pete Wells concludes his chapter as restaurant critic, leaving behind a legacy of influential food writing and a reminder of the importance of self-discovery beyond professional roles.
