St. Petersburg’s dining scene is constantly evolving, and the arrival of Fortu, a new Pan-Asian restaurant, has certainly caused a stir. As a dedicated enthusiast of Asian cuisine, with years of personal cooking experience and exploration, I approached Fortu with a mix of excitement and apprehension. St. Pete has been lacking in truly exceptional Japanese and Chinese options, and I was hoping Fortu would break the mold. Spoiler alert: it absolutely did, and then some.
“Pan-Asian” is a broad term, encompassing a vast spectrum of culinary traditions. While Fortu’s menu might not represent the entirety of Asia, it impressively showcases Japanese, Chinese, and Korean flavors. The name “Fortu” itself, a clever play on “fortune” and Asian culture, sets the stage for an experience that blends tradition with modern flair. Located in the historic Ponce De Leon Hotel, in the space previously occupied by Ceviche, Fortu has undergone a stunning transformation. The renovation is remarkable; stepping inside, you’d never guess at the location’s age. The design team has created a sleek, contemporary Asian dining environment.
My initial visit, with a 6 PM reservation, revealed a restaurant that was already buzzing, filling to capacity by the time we departed. To truly gauge Fortu’s culinary prowess, I selected dishes I was familiar with, items I’ve enjoyed in other restaurants and even prepared at home. This allowed for a direct comparison, evaluating Fortu’s rendition against my own standards.
The service at Fortu is impeccable, truly elevating the dining experience. A simple request for a specific cocktail garnish – Roku Gin with ginger matchstick, as recommended by Suntory – highlighted the staff’s attentiveness. While they didn’t initially have the ginger garnish, our server’s initiative to research it and commitment to potentially adding it in the future was impressive. My sake choice, Tentaka Shuzo “Hawk in the Heavens”, was also a testament to their curated beverage program.
The fine-dining touches extended beyond beverages. Straws and serving spoons arrived on elegant platters with cloth napkins. Throughout our meal, the table was meticulously maintained, with crumbs and condensation promptly cleared between each course – a level of service rarely seen.
From the “For the Table” section, we began with the Pan Seared Gyoza and the Truffled Congee.
Gyoza is often a point of disappointment for me at restaurants. Having perfected Kenji Lopez’s recipe from “The Wok,” my homemade version sets a high bar. Fortu’s Wagyu beef gyoza, however, not only met but exceeded my expectations. The Wagyu filling is a luxurious upgrade from traditional pork, and the corn silk and shiitake jus added layers of sophisticated flavor. The perfect sear provided a delightful textural contrast.
The Truffled Congee, while technically more of a risotto, was undeniably delicious. While purists might quibble with the name, the creamy, truffle-infused rice was a standout dish. The “risotto style” preparation, though a departure from traditional congee, is a testament to Fortu’s creative approach.
Moving to the Raw Bar, we sampled the Spicy Salmon and the Hamachi Crudo.
These were, comparatively, our least favorite dishes of the evening, though still enjoyable. The Hamachi Crudo was slightly underwhelming in flavor, lacking the buttery richness I typically associate with high-quality hamachi. The Spicy Salmon itself was excellent, but the crispy rice base, while texturally interesting, detracted slightly from the salmon’s delicate flavor. Personally, I might prefer a poke-style presentation with sushi rice, but this is a matter of personal preference, and others have raved about this dish.
The true test, however, came with the Miso Black Cod from the Signature Dishes section.
This dish, popularized by Michelin-starred Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, is a benchmark of Japanese cuisine. Having experienced it at Nobu in London and prepared it at home, I have a strong sense of what it should be. Fortu’s Miso Black Cod was expertly executed. The presentation was flawless, and the fish was perfectly cooked, boasting great flavor and texture. It had a subtle sweetness that was slightly different from my usual experience, but still incredibly delicious. (As a side note, Black Cod is actually Sablefish, not true cod, originating from the Pacific, while cod is Atlantic. Sablefish’s firmer texture is ideal for the long marinade required for this dish – Fortu marinates theirs for two days, slightly less than the original three-day recipe, with no discernible difference.)
For a side, I opted for the House Special Fried Rice.
The name initially sounded like a generic Chinese menu item, and while “House Special Fried Rice” is indeed a common dish, Fortu’s version is anything but ordinary. Our server explained it’s a barbecue pork fried rice, a far cry from typical takeout fried rice. Instead of char siu pork, Fortu uses Korean BBQ pork, resulting in larger, softer, and more flavorful pieces. The rice itself was less greasy and more refined, an elegant interpretation of a classic.
Dessert brought the Chocolate Espresso Cake and the Coconut Mille Feuille.
Both were delightful, but the Chocolate Espresso Cake, with its rich chocolate sponge, espresso cream, and hazelnut crunch, was the clear winner.
A second visit with my wife, Lori, began with cocktails: the Emerald Samurai Gin Fizz and the Agave Citrus Paloma.
Both drinks were expertly balanced and flavorful, highly recommended choices. For starters, we selected the Wonton Tacos and the Crispy Potato Mille Feuille. I was initially hesitant about the Wonton Tacos, based on past disappointing experiences, but Fortu’s version was exceptional.
They were crisp, not greasy, and bursting with flavor. We tried both the Wagyu tartare and the Salmon variations – both were flawless. The accompanying daikon and carrot garnish, with its sesame oil and Champagne vinegar dressing, was also noteworthy. The Crispy Potato Mille Feuille was another standout. The paper-thin sliced potatoes, meticulously prepared and pan-fried, were a textural masterpiece – crispy on the outside, buttery and soft inside. The black truffle aioli added a creamy, umami-rich counterpoint.
From the “For the Table” sharables, we also sampled the Crispy Rock Shrimp.
This dish is addictive. Rock shrimp, a personal favorite, is rarely seen on menus. Fortu’s rendition highlights its firm, sweet, lobster-like meat with an extra-crispy coating and a perfect balance of sweet soy and chili-garlic aioli.
Our final savory dishes were the Korean Fried Chicken, Miso Creamed Corn, and Carrara Farms Australian Wagyu Bavette Steak.
The Korean Fried Chicken was crispy, tangy, and sweet. While I personally prefer spicier fried chicken, the sweet and savory flavors were well-balanced. The Miso Creamed Corn was surprisingly sweet, almost dessert-like, reminiscent of rice pudding. The Bavette Steak, however, was the star. Perfectly seared and cooked to medium-rare, it was a truly indulgent dish, well worth the splurge.
While there are future plans for sushi and sashimi at Fortu, there’s no reason to wait. Fortu is a welcome and exceptional addition to downtown St. Pete. Reservations are highly recommended.
Fortu
95 Central Avenue, St. Petersburg, FL 33701, US
(727) 256-0268
Hours:
Tue – Wed: 5:00pm – 9:00pm
Fri – Sat: 5:00pm – 10:00pm
Sun: 5:00pm – 9:00pm
View Menu
Reservations: Yes
Cuisine: Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Pan-Asian, Raw Bar, Steaks
Rating: 4.9 stars (Readers Rating from stpetersburgfoodies.com)
Spectacular
Fortu Website: http://forturestaurants.com
