White’s tree frogs are often recommended as excellent pets for beginner frog owners, and for good reason. Native to Australia, Indonesia, and New Guinea, these captivating amphibians, scientifically known as Litoria caerulea, are known for their gentle nature and relatively easy care requirements. Often displaying a beautiful green or blue-green hue, they are also affectionately called “dumpy tree frogs” due to their somewhat stout appearance. Their charming facial features, including sleepy eyes and a mouth that seems to curve into a smile, add to their appeal. Furthermore, their skin possesses a unique waxy coating, enabling them to tolerate slightly drier conditions compared to other tree frog species, which can be advantageous in a home environment.
Species Overview
Common Name: White’s Tree Frog, Dumpy Tree Frog
Scientific Name: Litoria caerulea
Adult Size: 3-5 inches
Lifespan: 7-10 years on average, with reports exceeding 20 years
White’s Tree Frog Behavior and Temperament
White’s tree frogs exhibit nocturnal behavior, meaning they are most active during the evening and night. During the day, they tend to be more sedentary, often found sleeping in their enclosure. Known for their docile and calm temperament, they often become quite tame and can tolerate gentle handling, making them enjoyable pets to observe and interact with. These frogs are also social creatures and can thrive when kept with companions of similar size.
It’s important to remember that amphibians, including White’s tree frogs, have highly absorbent skin. This sensitivity means they readily absorb substances through their skin, making them vulnerable to chemicals. Therefore, meticulous handwashing is crucial before handling them.
Warning
Always wash your hands thoroughly with warm water and rinse them exceptionally well with non-chlorinated water before and after handling your White’s tree frog. Ideally, use water from their tank for the final rinse to eliminate any soap or tap water residue. Even natural oils and salts present on human skin can be harmful to these delicate amphibians. Avoid using lotions, soaps, or hand sanitizers before handling, as any residues can be toxic to your frog’s sensitive skin.
Housing Your White’s Tree Frog
In their natural habitat, White’s tree frogs spend the majority of their time in trees. Therefore, when setting up their enclosure, prioritize vertical space and climbing opportunities. A 15 to 20-gallon tall aquarium is a suitable minimum size for a single adult frog. A hexagonal tank, offering more vertical space, can be an excellent choice.
Securing the enclosure with a tight-fitting lid is essential. White’s tree frogs possess specialized toe pads that allow them to easily climb smooth surfaces like glass, and they are adept escape artists if given the opportunity. Housing multiple frogs together is possible, provided they are of similar size. Significant size differences can lead to larger frogs attempting to prey on smaller ones.
If your frog persistently rubs its nose against the glass, seemingly trying to escape, consider placing a strip of paper a few inches tall around the outside bottom of the tank. This can act as a visual barrier. Frogs don’t always comprehend transparent barriers, but solid, dark barriers can deter them.
Provide an abundance of climbing enrichment within the enclosure. Branches, large pieces of cork bark, and sturdy foliage are ideal. Ensure all climbing structures are robust enough to support the weight of these relatively stocky frogs. Opt for natural, live plants with strong stems that can withstand climbing. Before introducing live plants, ensure they are free from fertilizers and pesticides, both on the plant itself and in the potting soil. Placing live plants in small, movable pots within the terrarium simplifies tank cleaning.
Creating a shaded retreat is also important. Affixing dark paper to the back of the tank provides a secluded, dimly lit area where your frog can sleep comfortably during daylight hours. Alternatively, position a large piece of bark diagonally across a corner of the enclosure, a few inches from the back wall. This creates a sheltered space beneath the bark where the frog can cling to the back wall and sleep. You can also utilize dense artificial or live plants to create hiding spots. Ensure any hideaways have multiple exits, allowing the frog to feel secure while having escape routes.
Regular maintenance is key to a healthy environment. Spot-clean the enclosure daily, removing any visible waste from plants and the tank floor. Change the water dish daily using non-chlorinated water.
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Alt text: White’s tree frog, showcasing its green skin and golden eyes, clings to a branch within a well-maintained terrarium, illustrating a suitable habitat for this amphibian pet.
Heat Requirements
To maintain the correct temperature gradient, position a basking light or a heat emitter on only one side of the enclosure. This allows your frog to move between warmer and cooler areas to regulate its body temperature. During the day, aim for a temperature range of 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 29 degrees Celsius) on the warmer side, with a cooler side around 70-75F. Nighttime temperatures can drop slightly to 68 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 24 degrees Celsius). Use both a handheld thermometer and adhesive thermometers inside the tank to monitor and verify temperatures accurately in different locations.
Lighting
White’s tree frogs thrive in subdued lighting conditions. If supplemental lighting is needed, especially for nighttime viewing, use a low-intensity nocturnal bulb. Establish a consistent day-night cycle, providing approximately 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. As nocturnal creatures, White’s tree frogs do not have specific UVB lighting requirements like some reptiles. While UVB exposure isn’t essential, it’s not harmful either. If you wish to provide UVB, a low-percentage UVB source (around 5%) can be used.
Substrate Needs
While White’s tree frogs are arboreal, a well-constructed substrate layer in their enclosure is beneficial for maintaining humidity and mimicking their natural warm, moist tropical environment. Start with a base layer of large-sized, washed gravel to aid drainage. Cover this with a layer of chemical-free soil. Add larger pieces of bark to create further structure. Finally, cover any exposed soil with sphagnum moss, which excels at retaining moisture and contributing to the necessary humidity levels for these amphibians.
Avoid using small gravel or bark shavings as substrate, as these can be accidentally ingested by your frog during feeding. For temporary setups or quarantine tanks, some keepers opt for a simpler substrate like paper towels or paper for easier cleaning. However, maintaining adequate humidity can be more challenging with minimal substrate.
Humidity Levels
Maintaining proper humidity is crucial for White’s tree frog health. Use a hygrometer inside the tank to accurately measure relative humidity. Hygrometers can lose accuracy over time, so calibrate them annually. Aim to maintain humidity levels between 60% and 70%. Achieve this by misting the enclosure daily with dechlorinated or bottled water (avoid distilled water). Automated misting systems or rain bars can also be helpful. Provide a shallow water dish containing dechlorinated or bottled water large enough for the frog to soak in.
Always dechlorinate tap water before use with amphibians. Chlorine and chloramine, commonly used in water purification, are harmful to them. Allow water to sit in an open container at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours to allow dissolved gases to dissipate and chlorine to evaporate. Alternatively, use a commercial dechlorinator or bottled water (again, avoid distilled water). Distilled water lacks essential minerals that amphibians need.
Diet and Feeding
White’s tree frogs are insectivores and require a varied diet of live insects. Suitable food items include:
- Live crickets
- Moths (insecticide-free)
- Beetles
- Cockroaches (appropriate species)
- Grasshoppers
- Earthworms
The amount of food your frog needs will vary based on its size, age, and activity level. White’s tree frogs are prone to obesity, so avoid overfeeding. As a general guideline for adult frogs (over 3 inches long), offer a few large crickets every two to three days, adjusting as needed based on the frog’s condition. Smaller frogs can be fed smaller crickets (around 3-week-old size) every two to three days, and juvenile frogs require daily feedings.
Monitor your frog’s body condition to determine appropriate feeding amounts. Look for slight ridges just above the eardrums. If these ridges are not visible, the frog is likely underweight and needs more food, or more frequent feedings. If the ridges become very prominent and sag or fold over, the frog is likely overweight and needs reduced feeding. Reduce food quantity gradually, by no more than 50% over time if obesity is observed.
All feeder insects should be gut-loaded with nutritious foods for at least 24 hours prior to feeding them to your frog. Commercial gut-loading diets are available. In addition, dust feeder insects with a calcium-vitamin supplement. Dust insects once a week for adult frogs, two to three times a week for medium-sized frogs, and daily for young, growing frogs.
Provide a water dish large and shallow enough for the frog to soak in comfortably, but not so deep that it poses a drowning risk. Tree frogs are not strong swimmers. The water level should ideally be just below the frog’s nostrils when it is sitting in the dish.
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Alt text: Close-up image of a White’s tree frog with vibrant green skin, actively consuming a cricket, demonstrating their insectivorous diet and feeding habits in captivity.
Common Health Issues
The most significant health threat to White’s tree frogs is chytridiomycosis, a fungal disease caused by the chytrid fungus. This devastating disease is a major concern for amphibian populations globally. Chytridiomycosis is characterized by lethargy and weight loss in affected frogs. Treatment options are limited, making prevention crucial.
Purchasing and Selecting a White’s Tree Frog
Expect to pay around $30 for a White’s tree frog. To minimize the risk of chytrid fungus exposure and ensure you are getting a healthy pet, always purchase your White’s tree frog from reputable breeders or reptile stores. Responsible breeders will guarantee that their frogs are captive-bred and disease-free. Captive-bred frogs are generally more robust and better adapted to captive environments than wild-caught individuals.
Wild-caught amphibians can carry parasites and infections that can be detrimental to their health and potentially spread to other animals in your collection. Reptile shows and reputable online breeders can be good sources for finding captive-bred White’s tree frogs. Whenever possible, observe the frog in person before purchasing. Ideally, witness them eating to ensure they have a healthy appetite, which is a strong indicator of overall health.
Pros and Cons of White’s Tree Frogs as Pets
White’s tree frogs are often lauded as excellent beginner pets due to several appealing traits. They are generally docile and tolerate gentle handling. They remain a manageable size, not growing excessively large. Compared to some other frog species, their care requirements are relatively straightforward. However, it’s essential to be aware of their specific needs. Their sensitive skin makes them susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections. Maintaining proper temperature, humidity, and lighting within their enclosure requires consistent monitoring.
Learn more about what frogs eat.
Similar Species to Consider
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Explore other fascinating reptiles and amphibians that could become your pets!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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Do White’s tree frogs enjoy being petted?
White’s tree frogs are known for their friendly and docile nature and will generally tolerate gentle handling. Always ensure your hands are clean and free of any residues before handling them. -
How popular are White’s tree frogs as pets?
White’s tree frogs are very popular pets, prized for being both relatively easy to care for and considered an exotic pet. -
What diseases can White’s tree frogs carry?
Like many amphibians, White’s tree frogs can potentially carry Salmonella and Ranavirus. Practicing good hygiene after handling them is always recommended. -
How active are White’s tree frogs at night?
As nocturnal animals, White’s tree frogs become quite active at night, exploring their enclosure after spending much of the day resting or sleeping.
