Blood pythons, with their striking colors and substantial size, often capture the attention of reptile enthusiasts. If you’re considering adding one of these impressive snakes to your collection, a key question arises: Are Blood Pythons Good Pets? The answer, while leaning towards yes, comes with nuances that are important for any prospective owner to understand. For the dedicated snake keeper, blood pythons can indeed be ideal, offering a rewarding experience in herpetoculture. They are undeniably gorgeous, attain a manageable size without becoming overwhelmingly large, and possess a level of complexity in their care that allows keepers to continuously learn and refine their skills. This article will delve into the essential aspects of blood python husbandry, providing you with the knowledge to determine if one of these captivating creatures is the right pet for you.
The Ideal Python for the Dedicated Enthusiast?
Blood pythons (Python brongersmai) stand out as a superb choice for those who are serious about python keeping. They aren’t just visually stunning; they offer a fulfilling challenge that appeals to keepers looking to expand their herpetological expertise. Successful blood python husbandry is about achieving equilibrium – maintaining the right balance of temperature, humidity, enclosure size, and more. It’s a delicate act, but with the right approach, it becomes a manageable and enriching part of snake ownership. Let’s explore the key considerations that contribute to a thriving environment for these magnificent snakes.
Setting Up the Perfect Enclosure
Creating the appropriate habitat is paramount for the well-being of your blood python. Unlike some other snake species that might tolerate standard glass aquariums with screen tops, blood pythons truly flourish in enclosures designed specifically for reptiles.
The Right Type of Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen tops often present challenges in maintaining consistent temperature and humidity levels crucial for blood pythons. Glass, being a poor insulator, struggles to retain heat, and screen tops further exacerbate this issue by allowing humidity to escape. This combination can lead to a suboptimal environment, requiring extra effort from the keeper to compensate. Opting for a purpose-built reptile enclosure, constructed from materials like PVC or molded plastic, offers superior insulation and humidity retention. This choice simplifies environmental control, reducing stress for both the snake and the keeper. These specialized enclosures are designed to maintain stable conditions, mimicking the snake’s natural habitat more effectively.
Cage Size and Accessories
Providing an appropriately sized enclosure is crucial throughout a blood python’s life, adapting as they grow from hatchlings to adults. A hatchling blood python will feel insecure and overwhelmed in an enclosure designed for a full-grown adult, potentially leading to stress and feeding refusal. Conversely, an adult blood python cannot thrive in a cramped space suitable only for a juvenile. The enclosure size directly influences heating strategies, ventilation requirements, and even the selection of substrate and water bowls. Therefore, considering the “big picture” – the snake’s adult size and needs – is essential when choosing an enclosure.
For hatchling blood pythons, tubs measuring approximately 10 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 4 inches tall are suitable. Adequate ventilation can be achieved by creating small holes on the sides of the tub. As they mature, blood pythons require significantly more space. Adult blood pythons thrive in enclosures offering around 7 square feet of floor space. Large storage bins, approximately 52 inches long, 20 inches wide, and 12 inches tall, can serve as excellent and cost-effective adult enclosures, particularly when used within rack systems.
For keepers preferring display enclosures, a tank measuring 48 inches long, 24 inches wide, and 24 inches tall provides ample space for a mature blood python and allows for a visually appealing setup.
Ivory blood python basking under gentle lighting. Providing adequate space and appropriate lighting are key aspects of responsible blood python ownership.
Within the enclosure, substrate choice plays a significant role in maintaining hygiene and humidity.
Substrate Choices
Paper-based substrates like newspaper, butcher paper, or Kraft paper are excellent, practical options. Blood pythons often appreciate the security of burrowing between layers of paper, which also helps to create localized humidity pockets due to the snake’s respiration. These paper substrates are easy to replace, making cleaning straightforward.
For a more naturalistic look, alternatives such as milled cypress mulch, chipped aspen (Sani-Chips), or shredded aspen are suitable. However, it’s vital to select wood substrates that are low in dust to prevent respiratory irritation in your blood python. Critically, ensure that any wood substrate used is cedar-free, as cedar oils are toxic to reptiles. Regularly spot-clean soiled substrate and ensure the enclosure maintains a fresh, odor-free environment.
For hatchling blood pythons, paper towels are the ideal substrate. Wood-based substrates can be too drying for young snakes. Paper towels can be easily dampened to maintain the necessary 60 to 70 percent humidity levels required by hatchlings, typically achieved by misting every other day.
Water Bowls
Water bowls should be readily available and appropriately sized. Hatchlings and juveniles do well with 8-ounce deli cups, subadults require 16-ounce containers, and adults need 24-ounce containers or larger. To prevent spills, especially with larger water bowls, placing them inside PVC couplings adds stability. Blood pythons are known to drink a lot, so fresh, clean water must be available at all times. Daily checks and immediate replacement of stale or soiled water are essential.
Blood pythons also enjoy soaking, and providing a water container large enough for them to fully submerge themselves is beneficial. While soaking is normal behavior, prolonged soaking might indicate excessively warm temperatures in the enclosure or a potential mite infestation. Check for tiny black specks in the water, resembling poppy seeds, which are a sign of mites.
Temperature and Heating
Maintaining the correct temperature gradient is vital for a blood python’s health and well-being. A common misconception is that blood pythons require very high temperatures. In reality, excessively high temperatures can cause stress and discomfort.
The ambient temperature for blood pythons, from hatchlings to adults, should be maintained between 80 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Supplemental heat should be provided at one end of the enclosure to create a thermal gradient, allowing the snake to regulate its body temperature. Heat tape or under-tank heaters are suitable options, aiming for a warm spot temperature of 86 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit. The cooler end of the enclosure should remain at the ambient temperature of 80-82 degrees Fahrenheit.
Regardless of the heating method, always use a thermostat or rheostat to precisely control and prevent overheating. Infrared thermometers, or “temp guns,” are invaluable tools for accurately measuring surface temperatures within the enclosure, providing instant digital readings.
A beautifully patterned PE stripe blood python. Providing the correct temperature and humidity is essential to showcase their vibrant colors and ensure their health.
Humidity Management
Another frequent misconception about blood python care is the need for extremely high humidity. While they do require humidity, it’s more about consistent moderate levels rather than excessive dampness. A humidity range of 60 to 70 percent is ideal and can be managed effectively with a proper enclosure setup and routine maintenance.
A blood python’s skin provides visual cues to humidity levels. Low humidity can manifest as scale dimpling, wrinkled spectacles (eye caps), and incomplete sheds. Increasing humidity can be achieved by providing a larger water bowl or by misting the enclosure as needed. Misting daily may be necessary in dry conditions or during shedding cycles, otherwise, misting every other day is usually sufficient. However, be cautious about reducing ventilation excessively to raise humidity, as adequate airflow is crucial to prevent stagnant conditions within the enclosure.
Conversely, consistently high humidity can lead to health problems. Signs of excessive humidity include a wet, wrinkled, and overly shiny appearance to the snake’s skin. Some keepers mistakenly interpret the wrinkling as dryness, further exacerbating the problem by adding more moisture. A consistently damp and warm environment encourages bacterial and fungal growth, posing health risks to your blood python. If the enclosure becomes too wet, address it by using a more absorbent substrate, increasing ventilation, or reducing the size of the water bowl if necessary.
Feeding Your Blood Python
Blood pythons thrive on a diet of rats. While hatchlings may initially accept hopper mice, they quickly transition to rat pups and continue to eat rats throughout their lives. Despite their robust appearance, blood pythons have relatively slow metabolisms and do not require enormous meals to maintain a healthy weight. A healthy blood python should have a slightly visible dorsal ridge and a gentle slope from the back to the sides, not appearing flat or overly rounded. Obesity is a significant concern in blood pythons, contributing to breeding problems and making respiratory issues more difficult to manage.
Adult blood pythons are typically fed medium to large rats, with the largest individuals consuming retired breeder rats, typically every two weeks. Blood pythons generally have hearty appetites and are usually excellent feeders. However, their eagerness to eat can easily lead to obesity if feeding is too frequent or prey items are too large. If feeding weekly, offer smaller rats to maintain a healthy weight. Using feeding tongs is recommended for safe feeding, whether offering pre-killed or frozen-thawed prey. For snakes that are initially hesitant to feed, pre-killed rats can be left in the enclosure. Never leave a live rat unattended with a blood python, as rodents can inflict serious injury or even death to the snake if left unsupervised.
Blood pythons can be successfully transitioned to frozen-thawed rats. Many captive-bred blood pythons are already accustomed to frozen-thawed prey. If not, patience and persistence are key to making the transition. Ensure frozen rats are thoroughly thawed and warmed to approximately 105 degrees Fahrenheit (surface temperature) to stimulate a feeding response. This can be achieved by placing the rat on a heat pad or using a hairdryer briefly before offering it.
Some blood pythons may be finicky when first switching to thawed prey. In such cases, a “tough love” approach, skipping a meal or two to encourage appetite, may be necessary. Again, using feeding tongs can be helpful, particularly if the snake is accustomed to taking fresh-killed rats in this manner.
Handling and Temperament
Wild-caught blood pythons have historically been perceived as having unpredictable temperaments. However, captive-bred blood pythons generally exhibit a much more docile and placid nature. Blood pythons that are handled gently and consistently from a young age typically mature into calm and manageable adults. Handling a large, beautiful, and well-tempered blood python is a truly rewarding experience. Therefore, in terms of temperament, are blood pythons good pets? For experienced handlers and with consistent, gentle interaction, the answer is often yes.
Baby blood pythons may initially be nervous and defensive, reacting with thrashing, flailing, or even biting when handled. This is often due to insecurity and a perceived threat. Initial handling sessions should be short and gentle – just a few minutes at a time, once or twice daily. Deliberate and careful movements are essential to build trust and establish a positive interaction pattern.
Avoid grabbing or carelessly swinging a blood python. These are heavy-bodied snakes that require proper support. They can become uncomfortable and stressed when dangled or handled roughly. Careless handling can undo progress in gentling a nervous snake. Always conclude handling sessions on a positive note, returning the snake to its enclosure when it is calm, even if only for a brief moment.
Blood Pythons and Their Short-Tailed Cousins
Blood pythons (Python brongersmai) are closely related to two other short-tailed python species: Borneo short-tailed pythons (Python breitensteini) and Sumatran short-tailed pythons (Python curtus). These three species were once considered subspecies of Python curtus until 2001.
A Sumatran short-tailed python displaying its dark coloration. These close relatives share similar care requirements to blood pythons.
Blood pythons are native to eastern Sumatra, surrounding islands, peninsular Malaysia, and southwest Thailand. The vibrant red coloration that gives them their common name is unique to this species and not found in Borneo or Sumatran short-tailed pythons. While the most prized blood pythons exhibit intense scarlet hues, their color range includes pale yellow, brown, and dark burgundy. Captive breeding has produced a diverse array of color and pattern morphs, including albino variations, stripes, and ivories.
Borneo short-tailed pythons, found on the island of Borneo, are also popular in captivity. Besides the wild-type form, several color morphs are available, such as stripes, Ultra-Breits (pale, reduced pattern), and marbles (speckled sides with intricate dorsal markings). Borneo short-tailed pythons are often noted for their docile temperaments, even as hatchlings.
A Borneo short-tailed python exhibiting its unique pattern. Like blood pythons, they are gaining popularity as pets among snake enthusiasts.
Sumatran short-tailed pythons, like some blood pythons, originate from Sumatra. They range in color from chocolate brown to black, with some exhibiting silver heads, referred to as “chrome-headed.” Another smaller variant has lighter pigmentation and bright orange heads, sometimes mistaken for Borneo short-tails. Sumatran short-tailed pythons typically darken with age, with the most significant color changes occurring within the first three years of life. For those seeking an impressive, jet-black snake with a good temperament, Sumatran short-tailed pythons are an excellent choice. The husbandry requirements for Borneo and Sumatran short-tailed pythons are virtually identical to those of blood pythons.
Tips for New Blood Python Keepers
For those new to blood pythons, starting with a healthy, captive-bred specimen from a reputable breeder is highly recommended. Experienced breeders offer blood pythons with established lineage, health records, and consistent feeding habits. They also serve as valuable resources for husbandry advice and support.
Many blood pythons available in the pet trade are captive-hatched, originating from wild-collected gravid females. These snakes often lack detailed history, making it challenging to assess their health and temperament. Choosing a juvenile from a dedicated breeder minimizes potential issues and sets the stage for a positive experience.
Conclusion: Are Blood Pythons the Right Pet for You?
So, are blood pythons good pets? For the informed and dedicated reptile keeper, the answer is a resounding yes. They offer a captivating blend of beauty, manageable size, and engaging husbandry requirements. However, they are not low-maintenance pets and require a commitment to providing the correct environment, diet, and handling. Blood pythons thrive when their specific needs are met, rewarding their keepers with their stunning appearance and docile nature. If you are prepared to dedicate the time and effort to understand and meet their needs, a blood python can be an incredibly rewarding and impressive addition to your reptile collection. They are truly an ideal choice for the serious python enthusiast looking to deepen their herpetological journey.
