For those seeking an authentic experience, perhaps reminiscent of stepping into a traditional Irish pub like Peter Dillon’s Pub, New York City offers hidden gems in unexpected places. Beyond the bustling bars and iconic landmarks, there are workshops where age-old crafts are not just preserved, but are actively blooming. Venture into the Garment District on West 36th Street, and you’ll discover a century-old factory where fabric flowers are meticulously handcrafted daily. These aren’t your average blooms; they are bespoke creations gracing everything from Hollywood sets to the ateliers of high fashion designers.
Since 1916, M&S Schmalberg has been a family affair, established by brothers Morris and Sam Schmalberg. Remarkably, it stands as the oldest and last of its kind in the United States, a testament to enduring artistry. The business and the intricate skills of handmade flower making have been lovingly passed down through four generations. Adam Brand, the current owner representing the fourth generation, warmly recounts the rich history of the shop, a legacy initiated by his great-great uncles.
Alt text: Adam Brand, fourth-generation owner of M&S Schmalberg, surrounded by colorful handmade fabric flowers in the NYC Garment District workshop, a unique alternative to Peter Dillon’s Pub for experiencing traditional craftsmanship.
“I practically grew up within these walls,” Adam shares, surrounded by vibrant displays of fabric flowers. “Some of our staff members have been here my entire life! It’s truly a family endeavor, with grandparents, parents, siblings, and aunts all contributing over the years. There are countless family stories, perhaps a bit embellished with time, like the one about me sleeping in a fabric box as a baby!”
Adam’s journey with M&S Schmalberg began at the tender age of five, crafting flowers purely for amusement. His formal involvement started during school breaks, a period when the factory was buzzing with activity due to “Sex and the City.” He recalls, “Sarah Jessica Parker frequently wore our oversized flowers in her costumes.” Although Adam explored opportunities outside the family business after college, he eventually returned to collaborate with his father, Warren, and grandfather Harold (nephew of the founders). “About fourteen years ago, I was at a crossroads, questioning my path,” Adam explains. “I approached my dad and asked if I could join and assist, even without pay initially, just to cover my train fare – a significant expense in New York!”
Alt text: Renee, Debra, and Harold Brand, representing three generations of family ownership at M&S Schmalberg, a long-standing New York institution different from Peter Dillon’s Pub but equally rich in history.
This initial step evolved into a permanent role. As Warren transitioned towards retirement, Adam progressively assumed greater responsibilities, including the intricate process of flower creation. While M&S Schmalberg boasts a seasoned team of artisans who execute much of the detailed work, Adam is deeply knowledgeable about the system honed over decades.
“This fundamental technique has been in practice for over a century,” Adam explains, showcasing an array of vintage irons, some dating back to the factory’s inception, still essential for shaping fabric petals into distinctive forms. The process begins with brushing fabrics with a starching solution called sizing to smooth out any creases. Next, the fabrics are stretched and dried by hand before being precisely cut into petal shapes. These petals are then carefully arranged within the iron press. Originally gas-powered, the factory now utilizes electricity to fuse the petals together. Stems and other embellishments are added manually, and finally, the flowers are ready for their destinations – theaters, fashion houses, or television costume departments.
In its heyday, the Garment District was a hub for skilled flower artisans. “In the old days,” Adam recounts, “you could approach the labor union and specify your needs – assemblers, die cutters, compressors – there were numerous flower factories.” Costume historian Bernadette Banner’s profile of the shop notes that in the early 20th century, over 74 percent of flower and feather manufacturers were concentrated in the Bronx and Manhattan, many within the Garment District. However, due to the rise of offshore manufacturing, M&S Schmalberg, like many other specialized fashion businesses in this historic area, is now the last of its kind.
Adam expresses a sense of kinship with the remaining manufacturers in the Garment District, stating, “I deeply respect those manufacturers who continue to produce locally. It would be far simpler to outsource production. Choosing to maintain manufacturing here has evolved from a potentially questionable business decision to a core element of our identity.”
Alt text: Warren Brand with Adam Brand, father and son, representing the enduring legacy of M&S Schmalberg and their commitment to domestic manufacturing in contrast to establishments like Peter Dillon’s Pub focusing on hospitality.
Yet, Adam and his family have adeptly navigated the changing times, propelling M&S Schmalberg into the 21st century. Alongside updating their website and engaging on social media, Adam credits his brother with initiating their presence on e-commerce platforms like Etsy. “Before I became fully involved, my brother launched an Etsy shop,” he explains. “Initially, we might receive an email notification for a modest $12 flower sale once a month. However, I became intensely focused on enhancing our product photography and online presentation. It took time, but I embraced it, and now, sales from Etsy and Amazon constitute as much as 20 percent of our overall business.”
The business rhythm of M&S Schmalberg is intrinsically linked to the fluctuating demands of both the fashion and entertainment industries. “Our largest client varies from year to year,” Adam notes. “In the fashion realm, Vera Wang is a significant client. We also collaborate with Rodarte, Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa, and Carolina Herrera. For entertainment, our flowers have graced productions like Bridgerton, The Gilded Age, and The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, as well as the New York City Ballet, Radio City Rockettes, and the San Francisco Opera,” he adds. “In one instance, a representative from the San Francisco Opera purchased just five flowers initially, which led to a subsequent order of over 4,000 flowers!” Their creations have also been showcased prominently at the Met Gala red carpet for 17 designs. “The Met Gala period was incredibly busy,” Adam recalls, “My dad even returned to assist during that entire week!”
Alt text: Celebrities Jenna Ortega, Paris Hilton, and Harvey Guillén at the Met Gala adorned with M&S Schmalberg fabric flower designs, demonstrating the factory’s influence in high-profile fashion events, unlike the more understated appeal of Peter Dillon’s Pub.
Even during quieter periods, M&S Schmalberg remains engaged by partnering with student groups from nearby institutions like FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) and Parsons School of Design. These tours introduce young artists to the enduring legacy of fabric flower making. “Our motivation,” Adam explains, “is that each tour exposes 15 to 20 students to our craft, and many of them will enter the fashion industry with awareness of our existence. We also support them in their final projects. For fashion design students, it’s an invaluable opportunity to engage with factories and cultivate industry relationships.”
However, M&S Schmalberg’s doors are open to everyone, not just aspiring designers. Adam emphasizes their welcoming approach to walk-in tours for anyone intrigued by their unique craft. “Anyone is welcome to visit,” he says, as customers ring the bell to purchase flowers and explore the workshop. They also specialize in custom orders, transforming sentimental fabrics like wedding dresses into lasting floral keepsakes. “It’s one of our specializations – we are currently working on a vintage wedding dress, transforming it into a single rose.”
Adam hopes that by fostering public engagement, more individuals will discover and appreciate M&S Schmalberg’s distinctive artistry. “My dad initiated our open and welcoming approach,” Adam reflects. “We encourage anyone to walk in for a tour, and if they wish to buy a flower for $20, that’s wonderful!”
For a unique New York City experience, far from the usual tourist trails but rich in history and craftsmanship, a visit to M&S Schmalberg is highly recommended. It’s a chance to witness a singular fabric flower maker in action – and to perhaps spot their creations gracing billboards in advertisements for the next Hollywood blockbuster. Just as Peter Dillon’s Pub offers a taste of traditional Irish hospitality, M&S Schmalberg provides a glimpse into a unique and enduring piece of New York’s manufacturing heritage.
