The anticipation of crisp, golden fries can quickly deflate when met with a starchy, flavorless interior. This was the underwhelming start to a meal, where the fries, while visually appealing, tasted disappointingly of anything but fresh-cut potatoes. The sole, a dish choice that raised eyebrows in a steakhouse, mirrored this mediocrity. Its breadcrumb topping boasted a promising crunch, yet the fish beneath was arid, almost powdery, leaving a texture as undesirable as its taste.
Had time dulled the memory of Peter Luger’s Caesar salad? Was it always this saturated with dressing, the croutons tasting distinctly pre-packaged, and the grated cheese possessing a rubbery, artificial quality? Recollections of the German fried potatoes painted a different picture – brown, crunchy, and eagerly anticipated. Now, they arrive mushy, with a dingy grey hue, and sometimes even cold, an unwelcome surprise akin to discovering a suspicious mole.
[Readers respond](https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/29/reader-center/peter-luger-zero-stars-reaction.html) to the Pete Wells review of Peter Luger.]
An afternoon lunch service further highlighted the kitchen’s unpredictable nature. Three patrons at the bar, including myself, ordered medium-rare burgers. The results were a stark contrast. One burger arrived as requested, a beautifully seared crust giving way to a juicy, rosy center. Another was overcooked, almost entirely brown throughout. Mine was a bizarre half-and-half, transitioning from near perfection on one side to dry and grey on the other.
This inconsistency extended to a medium-rare porterhouse enjoyed another evening. The fillet side was exemplary, but the strip side of the T-bone varied from medium-rare to medium-well. While uneven cooking can be expected in larger cuts, the recurring issue with Peter Luger’s porterhouse is a more profound realization: it’s simply another steak, not the pinnacle of New York steakhouses as its reputation suggests. There are numerous other establishments in New York that surpass Peter Luger in steak quality and overall dining experience.
[Melissa Clark shows you how to cook a steak at home.]
Many restaurants, not just steakhouses, achieve a robust crust on both sides of their steaks. Peter Luger, however, only manages to caramelize the top, leaving the underside barely cooked, seemingly relying solely on the hot platter for cooking. This technique contributes to the uneven texture and lack of overall quality that now defines the Peter Luger experience. Is Peter Luger resting on its laurels, failing to maintain the standards that once cemented its legendary status in the competitive New York dining scene?
