The Ultimate Guide to Pet Jumping Spiders: Care, Habitat, and Everything You Need to Know

Jumping spiders, with their captivating eyes and curious nature, have become increasingly popular pets for arachnid enthusiasts and beginners alike. My own journey into the world of these tiny creatures began unexpectedly, sparked by a desire to capture their unique faces with my first digital camera back in 2003. What started as a photographic hobby quickly evolved into a deep fascination with their personalities and behaviors. Holding a Master’s degree in Biology, I’ve always been drawn to the natural world, but jumping spiders ignited a particular passion. Over years of observation and interaction, I’ve come to appreciate them not just as fascinating subjects for photography, but as intelligent and engaging companions. The countless inquiries I’ve received about their care inspired me to compile this comprehensive guide, drawing from my personal experiences and addressing the common questions from fellow jumping spider admirers. My hope is to share my knowledge and help you provide the best possible care for your Pet Jumping Spider.

Image of a jumping spider named Biglegs, showcasing the author’s long-term experience and personal connection with these arachnids.

Understanding Jumping Spider Temperament

One of the most rewarding aspects of keeping pet jumping spiders is their interactive and often charming temperament. They stand out as some of the most intelligent spiders, displaying a level of curiosity and engagement rarely seen in other arachnids. Each spider boasts its own distinct personality. You might encounter individuals that are naturally shy and easily startled, while others are remarkably calm and observant, seemingly watching your every move with those large, expressive eyes.

Jumping spiders are also known for their gentle nature, making them surprisingly friendly pets. Bites are infrequent, especially when you handle them with care. In my extensive experience handling hundreds of these spiders, I’ve only been bitten a couple of times, and each instance was clearly due to improper handling on my part, usually during attempts to catch a spider quickly. The sensation of a bite is often described as a minor pinprick, and it’s debatable whether venom is even injected in such defensive bites. Consider it more of a gentle warning to be handled with respect.

Catching Your Pet Jumping Spider

Jumping spiders are remarkably widespread and adaptable. You may even find potential pet jumping spiders inhabiting your own home, particularly around sunny windowsills where they bask in the warmth. Outdoors, they are commonly observed in sun-drenched locations like brick walls and fences. Their preference for sunlight is due to their need for warmth to activate their muscles, allowing for their characteristic agility and speed. You’ll notice they are less active and harder to spot on cloudy or rainy days.

The safest and most effective method for catching a jumping spider is to use a cup or small container. Gently approach the spider and position the cup in front of it. Then, using your other hand, softly guide or coax the spider into the cup. The key is to avoid grabbing or prodding the spider, as this can cause stress and increase the likelihood of a defensive bite. Always allow the spider to walk into the container willingly. This gentle approach is crucial not only when initially capturing your pet jumping spider, but also whenever you need to handle or relocate it within its enclosure.

Setting Up the Perfect Habitat for Your Pet Jumping Spider

Creating the right environment is crucial for the well-being of your pet jumping spider. While a very small container might suffice for temporary housing, it severely restricts the spider’s ability to exercise and exhibit its natural behaviors. If you envision spending significant time interacting with your spider daily, a smaller enclosure might be manageable. However, for a pet jumping spider that will spend most of its time in its habitat, providing ample space is essential. Aim for at least a cubic foot of space, or larger if possible, to allow for adequate movement. Lack of exercise can lead to muscle weakness and a reduced lifespan for these active creatures. They need room to practice their impressive jumps and move with speed.

Ventilation is paramount. Ensure your chosen container has sufficient ventilation holes, but make sure they are small enough to prevent escape. While elaborate decorations like branches and leaves might seem appealing, they can actually make it more challenging to locate your spider, as they often construct their resting sacs – small silken retreats where they spend much of their time – within curled leaves or dense foliage.

Two images showing the molting process of a young jumping spider, highlighting the changes in appearance as they grow and age.

In my experience, simplicity often works best. A slightly crumpled napkin or paper towel placed inside the enclosure provides a comfortable and functional substrate. Jumping spiders readily utilize the folds of the napkin to create their resting sacs, and it simplifies cleaning and observation.

Sunlight is beneficial, but moderation is key. Direct sunlight, especially in glass or plastic terrariums, can rapidly overheat the enclosure and become fatal to your pet jumping spider. Position the habitat in a location that receives indirect sunlight or partial sunlight for about 4-5 hours a day, ensuring there are also shaded areas within the enclosure, like the folds of a napkin, where the spider can retreat from direct light and heat. Jumping spiders thrive in temperatures ranging from 68-85 degrees Fahrenheit, which generally aligns with typical household temperatures.

Feeding Your Pet Jumping Spider: A Guide to Diet

Proper nutrition is vital for the health and longevity of your pet jumping spider. Generally, aim to feed your spider an appropriately sized insect every 2-3 days. While they can survive for longer periods, even up to a week, regular feeding is recommended. Avoid offering hard-shelled beetles and pill bugs, as they are not preferred and can be difficult for the spider to consume. Ants should also be avoided as they can pinch and inject formic acid, which is distasteful and potentially harmful to jumping spiders.

Flies and small crickets are typically the most favored food sources. Moths are another excellent option, and like flies, they pose no risk of biting your spider. One pet owner shared that their jumping spider enjoyed webworms, while another reported their spider consuming silverfish, demonstrating some individual variation in dietary preferences. If you choose to feed crickets, select small crickets that are no larger than 1.5 times the length of the spider’s body to prevent potential bites from the prey.

Interestingly, I’ve observed distinct feeding habits among different pet jumping spiders. Some consistently consume cricket legs first, others prefer the head, and some begin with the abdomen. Certain spiders exhibit a clear preference for flies and only consume crickets when particularly hungry. Some individuals even seem annoyed by flies, killing them to stop the buzzing without consuming them.

During warmer months, catching flies outdoors with a fine-mesh butterfly net (inexpensive children’s nets work well) is a convenient and natural way to source food. In colder climates or if you prefer not to catch flies, small crickets are readily available at most pet stores. Avoid large crickets, as they can be intimidating and potentially harmful to smaller jumping spiders.

To feed your pet jumping spider, simply introduce the live insect into its enclosure. The spider will typically stalk and pounce on its prey. After the spider has finished eating, remove any leftover insect remains, such as exoskeletons, to maintain hygiene and prevent odors in the enclosure.

Watering and Humidity for Jumping Spiders

Jumping spiders, like all spiders, breathe through book lungs located in their abdomen. These delicate respiratory structures resemble the pages of a book and are susceptible to drowning if submerged in water. Therefore, providing water for your pet jumping spider requires a specific approach. They only need very small droplets of water.

The best method is to lightly mist one side of the enclosure with a spray bottle every few days. A single, brief squirt is usually sufficient. Alternatively, you can drip a few small drops of water onto the side of the enclosure. Avoid creating puddles of water at the bottom of the enclosure, as this can pose a drowning risk and increase humidity excessively. Maintaining slightly humid conditions is generally beneficial, but avoid overly damp environments.

Cohabitation and Breeding of Jumping Spiders

Generally, it is advisable to house jumping spiders individually. Cohabitating two female jumping spiders or two male jumping spiders will likely result in aggressive territorial disputes, potentially leading to death.

Introducing a male and female pet jumping spider for breeding purposes can be unpredictable. When attempting to breed jumping spiders, always ensure a plentiful supply of food, such as flies and crickets, within the enclosure. Despite this precaution, female jumping spiders may sometimes exhibit aggression and attack or even kill the male, even before mating occurs. To minimize this risk and ensure the survival of both spiders, it is best to introduce them only for a short period, a few days or less, and separate them after mating is observed or suspected.

Female jumping spiders possess the remarkable ability to store sperm for up to a year. Therefore, a female you capture in the wild may already be fertilized and simply awaiting optimal conditions to lay eggs. This could explain why a seemingly unmated female might reject a male and become aggressive. Observing a newly captured female for several months to see if she produces an egg sac independently can provide insights into her reproductive status.

Jumping Spider Lifespan and Caring for Senior Spiders

If you acquire a young pet jumping spider, you will witness fascinating changes as it matures. If it initially displays orange markings or hairs, these may gradually turn white with subsequent molts. Male jumping spiders also develop longer and hairier front legs as they age, a noticeable characteristic of maturity.

Image of a jumping spider egg sac, illustrating the protective silken structure created by female spiders to safeguard their eggs.

From spiderling to adulthood, jumping spiders typically undergo 5-6 molts. However, the tiny hairs on their feet, crucial for gripping surfaces, are not replenished after the final molt. As these hairs wear down in old age, you’ll notice your pet jumping spider losing its climbing ability on smooth surfaces and becoming less inclined to jump. This marks the onset of old age in jumping spiders.

To accommodate an aging jumping spider, provide easily accessible surfaces within the enclosure. Lining the entire enclosure floor with a soft napkin or paper towel, and even covering some of the sides, creates a comfortable and safe environment. This also provides cushioning in case of falls, as older spiders can become less agile. It’s also advisable to discontinue feeding them insects that can bite, such as crickets, in their advanced age. Often, they may lose interest in actively hunting crickets. Flies or pre-killed crickets offered near their resting sac are gentler food options for senior jumping spiders. By providing supportive care, you can extend the life of your elderly pet jumping spider for several months beyond their natural lifespan. While the eventual passing of a pet is always poignant, remember that jumping spiders typically have a lifespan of only one to two years, and you have hopefully provided a stimulating and comfortable life for your tiny companion.

Caring for Jumping Spider Egg Sacs and Babies

If you are fortunate enough to have a female pet jumping spider that was previously mated, you might witness the fascinating process of egg sac creation. The female will spin a large, silken resting sac to house her eggs. The appearance may resemble the image provided, though in natural settings, the sac is usually more concealed and protected. The pictured sac was relocated from its original, vulnerable location, making the eggs more visible than they typically are within a well-hidden sac. Sometimes, egg sacs are so effectively concealed in corners that their presence is only discovered when baby spiders emerge.

Maintaining proper humidity around the egg sac is important. Lightly mist the exterior of the sac with a spray bottle once a week, being careful not to spray directly into any openings. Monitor closely for signs of baby spiders emerging, as misting during this critical period could potentially drown the spiderlings. It generally takes 2-4 weeks for spiderlings to become visible within the sac. Remarkably, they will even undergo their first molt while still inside the protective sac before venturing out. Allow the baby spiders to emerge from the sac naturally; this process can take up to a month for all spiderlings to leave. As they emerge, they can be gently guided into a cup using a puff of air, similar to blowing out a candle. Avoid physically touching or attempting to move them with objects, as they are incredibly delicate and easily crushed.

It is generally recommended to leave the mother spider in the enclosure with the egg sac. Whether removing her would affect the spiderlings is uncertain; however, in nature, the female typically remains with the sac. It’s possible that she communicates with her developing offspring through pheromones or other chemical signals, a process we may not fully understand. Continue to provide food for the mother spider, such as small crickets or flies. While some nesting females may continue to eat regularly, others may abstain from food for extended periods, up to a month, but they will typically continue to drink water.

Interestingly, a female jumping spider may produce another egg sac shortly after her previous brood has dispersed, or even create a new sac in a different location within the enclosure beforehand. This is possible even if you haven’t observed mating, as females can store sperm for extended periods and fertilize eggs at a later time.

Unfertilized Egg Sacs

It’s important to note that not every egg sac will yield baby spiders. If a female pet jumping spider is kept in isolation for a prolonged period without mating, she may still lay unfertilized eggs. This is thought to be a biological mechanism to prevent egg-binding, a potentially fatal condition observed in some other spider species. Unfertilized eggs initially appear normal but will eventually dry up and fail to hatch. In some instances, the female may even consume the unfertilized eggs after a few weeks. A large resting sac constructed in a secluded corner often indicates egg-laying is imminent. Whether mating before or during this process is optimal is still an area of ongoing observation and learning.

Care of Baby Spiders

Caring for a large number of baby pet jumping spiders is a significant challenge, primarily because they are prone to cannibalism if not separated. Releasing them into a suitable outdoor environment during mild weather conditions (early morning or late evening) is often the most practical approach. Avoid releasing them in direct sunlight, as young spiderlings are highly susceptible to dehydration and can perish quickly in the heat. Choose a location that offers some shelter from rain and sun, such as a porch in a shaded area. Gather small groups of spiderlings (around 10) into a cup and place the cup outdoors, allowing them to disperse naturally. They may remain in the cup for a few days in small clusters before venturing out.

Newly emerged spiderlings are immediately hungry and will cannibalize each other if not provided with food. Successfully raising baby jumping spiders requires a source of very small insects. Flightless fruit flies, readily available at pet stores or online from suppliers like The Fruit Fly Company, are ideal for this purpose. Drosophila melanogaster, a wingless species of fruit fly, is particularly suitable for very young spiderlings due to their small size. Drosophila hydei, a larger, flightless-winged species, is also commonly available. You can also culture your own fruit flies, using supplies from sources like Carolina Biological Supply Company, which offers vials, food mix, and other culturing essentials. Starting new cultures every week or two ensures a continuous supply of live food for your spiderlings.

To ensure spiderlings are feeding, introduce a few fruit flies to small groups of 4-5 spiderlings at a time and then separate the ones that have successfully fed. Providing a good first meal before release is beneficial, although some spiderlings may not be ready to eat immediately. Use the air-blowing method for handling fruit flies as well, as they are also easily crushed. Spiderlings typically only respond to moving prey, so live fruit flies are essential. Click here to see some babies eating their first flies.

Recently emerged spiderlings can be temporarily housed together in small groups, provided they are consistently supplied with fruit flies. As they grow, they will need to be separated into individual containers to prevent cannibalism. As they mature, you can gradually introduce larger insects, but continue to avoid ants, beetles, and pillbugs. Soft-bodied insects like flies and small crickets remain the preferred diet as they grow.

Image of baby jumping spiders in individual containers, illustrating the necessary separation to prevent cannibalism as they grow.

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