For a quarter of a century, the Undertow in St Pete Beach has been more than just a beach bar; it’s been a landmark, a community hub, and a personal sanctuary for many, including myself. Sitting on its upper deck today, watching the sun dip below a fiery red horizon, I was struck by a wave of nostalgia and gratitude. As I observed my children playing on the pristine sands, their laughter echoing around the beach volleyball courts, I couldn’t help but reflect on what this incredible establishment has meant to me over the years.
My own Undertow story began in 1997. Freshly 21 and eager to embrace the beach bar scene, Undertow was the place to be. It was the perfect escape from the Florida sun, a cool oasis where you could witness breathtaking sunsets paint the sky with vibrant hues. For me and countless others, Undertow quickly became a second home, and its owners, Paul Nicklaus and his sister Karen Browning, became like family.
The Undertow Beach Bar first opened its doors on June 25, 1990, a hidden gem nestled among boutique hotels just north of the iconic Don Cesar Hotel. This location boasted some of the finest sands in the world. Its beginnings were humble, a small gazebo almost concealed behind a Spanish-style home that had been converted into the 17-room Archway Villa resort. The entrepreneurial brother and sister duo convinced their father, the resort owner, to let them establish a bar in the back. Initially, they offered beer and wine, catering to local patrons during the quieter winter months and the occasional summer tourist. A quirky signature feature was the bar top itself, complete with a miniature lazy river carrying rubber ducks, adding a touch of whimsy to the beachside experience.
Five years later, Paul and Karen’s ambition grew. They acquired the adjacent Bel Mar motel, an 8-unit property, and made the bold decision to demolish the original Archway Villa. They embarked on a significant redesign, expanding Undertow into a fully enclosed bar with a coveted liquor license and adding a kitchen helmed by a four-star chef. This transformation cemented Undertow’s status as a fixture on St. Pete Beach. Its prime location, combined with a welcoming atmosphere, skilled bartenders, and expertly crafted cocktails, proved to be a winning formula. Undertow’s appeal lies in its versatility. It seamlessly transitions throughout the day, serving different crowds and moods. In the mornings, it’s a favorite breakfast spot for locals enjoying the beach. During the day, it becomes a lively watering hole for beachgoers seeking refreshment. And as evening descends, it transforms into a vibrant destination for socializing and enjoying the St. Pete Beach nightlife. What truly sets Undertow apart is its inclusive nature; it doesn’t cater to a single niche but offers something for everyone who walks through its doors.
When asked about the secret to Undertow’s enduring success, Paul and Karen might modestly attribute it to simple principles: “have fun, be safe, respect the beach.” However, my years as a loyal patron have revealed a deeper truth – their unwavering commitment to evolution. Despite their relentless schedules, Paul and Karen never rest on their laurels. They are constantly innovating and enhancing the Undertow experience. From refreshing the staff uniforms with new custom swimsuits to annual property renovations, there’s always something new at Undertow. Paul has overseen the addition of a second-story deck, expanded bar areas, and even incorporated entertainment options like video games and pool tables. Each change brings a fresh feel while preserving the nostalgic charm and spirit that defines Undertow.
While Undertow was initially my go-to spot for meeting people in my younger days, its role in my life evolved. Ten years ago, fate intervened in the Undertow parking lot. There, directing traffic, sat the woman of my dreams, engrossed in a weighty book on capitalism, all while sporting an “undertow bikini.” I was instantly captivated. Fifteen months later, we were married. Now, with four wonderful children, our relationship with Undertow has also transformed. Just as Paul and Karen’s families grew, Undertow embraced families, adding kid-friendly features to the beach area. While late nights are rarer for us now, the joy of bringing our children to the very place where my wife and I first connected is immeasurable. And every year, on the first Saturday after Thanksgiving, we participate in a cherished local tradition: family Christmas photos with Undertow’s iconic giant sand-snowman, a testament to the bar’s deep community roots.
Many businesses claim their staff are like family, but at Undertow, it genuinely rings true. My wife worked for Paul and Karen for six years, and even now, years later, the bond remains strong. They were there at the hospital when our children were born, a gesture that speaks volumes about their character. My wife’s cousin, Kat, has dedicated over 15 years to Undertow, a testament to the positive work environment and the sense of loyalty it fosters. Such long-term staff retention is rare in the hospitality industry and reflects the exceptional leadership of Paul and Karen.
Undertow is more than just a business; it’s a community, a sanctuary for beach lovers who share a respect for the coastal environment. They were pioneers in environmental responsibility, being among the first beach bars to replace plastic straws with eco-friendly paper alternatives, demonstrating their commitment to protecting the sea turtles that nest on their shores. Undertow also actively contributes to the community by hosting charity events like the Hawaiian Tropic pageants benefiting the Humane Society, beach crawls for cancer research, and fundraisers for marine life conservation.
Undertow boasts stunning bartenders, pristine sands, and an unbeatable open-beach atmosphere. But its true magic lies in being the complete package – a place where beauty, community, and genuine care converge. Thank you, Undertow, for bringing my wife into my life and blessing us with our children. Thank you for consistently welcoming us back with open arms.
Happy 25th Anniversary, Undertow! Here’s to many more years of sunsets, sand, and unforgettable memories at St Pete Beach’s finest beach bar.
Story by D.B. Thomas.
