Pete’s Candy Store, a beloved Williamsburg venue, celebrated its 20th anniversary on December 1st, 2019, marking two decades since it first opened its doors on December 1st, 1999. In a neighborhood that has undergone significant transformation, the enduring presence of Pete’s Candy Store is nothing short of remarkable. Over the years, Pete’s stage has become renowned, hosting an impressive roster of musicians and writers who have since achieved fame, while simultaneously nurturing a diverse and devoted community of local patrons.
To commemorate this milestone, Pete’s Candy Store hosted a week-long festival starting Sunday, December 1st. The celebration featured a stellar lineup of returning musicians, including residency veterans like Reverend Vince Anderson (with the Love Choir’s original 1999 ensemble) and the Howard Fishman Quartet, co-founder and original music curator Juliana Nash, and a variety of Pete’s signature events ranging from trivia nights to poetry readings and open mic sessions, all emceed by a distinguished group of past and present bartenders.
To delve into the rich history of Petes Candy Store, we engaged in conversations with business owner Andy McDowell, building owner Jerry Trotta, and neighborhood figure Sue Inzerelli, alongside numerous interviews, emails, Facebook messages, and texts with former and current bartenders, regulars, musicians, writers, and comedians. These individuals have all contributed to the legacy of this venerable establishment, whether as patrons or performers. The resulting oral history, while extensive, is inherently incomplete, yet it offers a glimpse into the vibrant life of Pete’s Lives.
THE ORIGINS OF PETE’S CANDY STORE
Jerry Trotta (Building Owner): This building is deeply rooted in my family history. My grandfather owned it first, then my father. (My father, Alfonso, was known as Funzi, and my grandfather was the original owner.) My father operated a luncheonette here dating back to my school days in the early 1950s. When my father relocated to Long Island with me around 1989, Pete expressed interest in the location. He rented the space and continued the business, naming it Pete’s Candy Store. Back then, it was also a place where people could place bets. My father would even turn in his numbers to Pete.
Pete lived nearby and was part of the local crowd that frequented the store. After lunchtime, it transformed into a hangout spot. From afternoon into the night, there was always a lively group. They would play an Italian finger game, betting on drinks. You’d throw out your fingers and call out a number. If your number matched the total fingers shown, you’d win.
Sue Inzerelli (“The Mayor of Lorimer Street”): I’ve lived across the street from petes candy store for all of my 78 years. So, I’ve been here a long time. [Pete’s] was a traditional candy store, selling small candies, nickel candy bars, and similar items. They also made fountain sodas. The Trotta family owned it since my childhood; it was always a small candy store. The neighborhood was mostly families back then. Everyone knew each other. Now, we hardly know anyone.
Andy McDowell (Co-founder, Owner): The candy store was operating rather inconsistently when I first encountered it. It didn’t seem like a formal business. I remember walking in once when it was open and the man behind the counter didn’t even acknowledge my presence. It didn’t appear they were actively preparing food; it had more of a rundown diner feel. I believe it was more vibrant when Funzi ran it. By the time I saw it, it had seemingly declined into something of a numbers operation, though I’m not entirely sure of its exact nature. I’ve heard various accounts.
Mira Jacob (Author, Co-founder of Pete’s Reading Series): I lived in the apartment next to petes candy store before it became a bar. My first memory is going in to order a grilled cheese and being served by a group of flustered older men. Clearly, everyone but me knew it wasn’t a typical candy store anymore. They were very kind and tried to make the sandwich, but they forgot to remove the plastic from the cheese slice.
Andy McDowell: I was working in the film industry as a set designer and production designer. I was becoming burnt out and felt it was time for a change, to find a way to earn a living without the intense hours. Opening a bar seemed like a viable idea, a common thought when you’ve spent enough time in bars and it doesn’t seem overly complicated. Many think, “I should open a bar.”
Jerry Trotta (Building Owner): Pete became ill, and after my father passed, I inherited the building. I decided to rent it out, and Andy was interested in opening a business. I agreed to rent it to him. Back then, the area was predominantly Italian. There were many social clubs. People mainly went there for cigarettes and small items.
Andy McDowell: When I first found this storefront, it was in a very quiet, almost deserted part of Williamsburg, not really on the way to anywhere. I liked that isolation. Perhaps I lacked strong business acumen, but I envisioned it as a secluded destination, a hideaway.
Meeting Jerry, he showed me the space, and I decided I wanted to rent it. He mentioned the previous tenants paid $600 and suggested $800. I asked, “$800 a month?” He confirmed, and I pretended to hesitate, though I thought it was a fair deal. I signed a long-term lease and have strived to be a good tenant ever since.
Jerry Trotta (Building Owner): In the 50s and 60s, it was a great time. My grandfather had a vineyard in the back and made wine in the basement. Many old-timers did that back then. He had the wine press in the cellar.
Andy McDowell: In the L-shaped garden, alongside the music room, there were still grapevines. I had this romantic idea of continuing the family tradition of bottling house red wine. But after two years of being overwhelmed with running petes candy store, I realized wine-making wasn’t going to happen.
The wine press was a large concrete structure in the basement. We ended up jackhammering it out and replaced it with soda canisters for the bar system. Not quite as romantic.
LAUNCHING THE BAR
Andy McDowell: Williamsburg had few venues then, especially music venues, and petes candy store was in an off-the-beaten-path location. It catered to the Italian community of Williamsburg and those near the Lorimer and Graham Avenue stops, who lacked local spots. Even Bedford Avenue was a bit of a walk. People made the journey.
Many of the carpenters who helped build petes candy store were musicians. A group of Irish carpenters played music here. One, Phil, was dating Beth Orton, who became the first performer on our stage even before the music room was fully finished.
Juliana Nash (Co-founder, Original Music Booker): We were introduced by a mutual friend. Andy had the vision for petes candy store as a music venue. I had the right experience in booking and management. I had bartending and restaurant management experience, and as a musician myself, I knew many musicians and venues. My band, Talking to Animals, was well-known in NYC and Boston for a decade.
Andy McDowell: Juliana, my partner when we opened, was crucial. I had elaborate, perhaps excessive, design ideas. She, also creative but not a designer, helped reel me in, prioritizing opening over perfection. She had bar and restaurant experience and knew what we needed to offer in terms of service and atmosphere.
Beyond operations, Juliana was the original music booker, establishing a remarkable legacy. She booked Howard Fishman, Reverend Vince Anderson, and many others who graced our stage.
Matty Charles (Musician, Bartender): When petes candy store opened, Williamsburg lacked music venues. I had just returned from San Francisco, and many former music spots were gone or fading. The Left Bank, the Charleston, Ships Mast, and the L cafe had changed, with less music.
Andy McDowell: My friend Chris Rock’s Phoebe’s Café community helped with painting and prep. Before opening petes candy store, I feared it might fail, a common fear for new business owners.
Fortunately, it thrived. The music residencies were packed every night, creating unique scenes each evening. It was magical. Even I, thinking I wouldn’t frequent such a crowded bar, was amazed by the bustling energy.
Dave Thrasher (Bartender, GM): I remember opening night of petes candy store vividly, especially the lighting and energy. The timing was perfect. Many artists and musicians were around, but venues were scarce. Williamsburg needed a place like petes candy store. In the early years, it was the place for local music and social gatherings.
Andy McDowell: Opening petes candy store was a whirlwind. After working day and night, I felt disoriented, trying to greet guests as the maitre d’ while running on no sleep.
Matty Charles (Musician, Bartender): Andy and Juliana created a unique, intimate space for artists and diverse characters. Its small size made performances feel personal and impactful. It was a very inclusive and happening place.
Andrew Tarlow (Diner Owner): Andy used to visit Diner, and we did yoga with his partner. I was impressed by petes candy store’s detailed design; it felt like a functional art piece.
Bradley Spinelli (Author, Killing Williamsburg): In 1999, writing Killing Williamsburg, I used local spots like Black Betty, the Dog Bar, and the L Cafe as settings. petes candy store opened during my writing process, so I included it. The narrator described it as a “seedy old metal shop transformed into a bar.”
THE EARLY DAYS OF PETE’S CANDY STORE
Andy McDowell: Designing petes candy store was about preserving its history. We kept the old wainscoting, worn elements, and exposed electrical conduit. It felt different, though. We rearranged furniture, refinished shelves for behind the bar, created new doorways, and integrated the outdoor space indoors.
Dave Thrasher (Bartender, GM): I met Andy at Phoebe’s coffee shop where I worked. He offered me a shift at petes candy store, mentioning he wanted to hire someone “good-looking” to attract women. Initially, I declined, disliking bars and not drinking. But friends convinced me to take the shift.
Howard Fishman (Musician): Juliana Nash approached me after seeing me play on the Bedford subway platform and asked my band to play petes candy store’s opening night, marking the first live music in the back room, likely December 1999. She described her vision for an intimate venue focused on listening and connection, different from larger, impersonal venues driven by ticket sales.
Mira Jacob (Author): Once petes candy store opened, friends would call me down, and I’d come in pajamas, without anyone noticing.
Reverend Vince Anderson (Musician): We first played petes candy store around 1999 or 2000, doing two residencies over three years. I loved the back room’s intimate, chapel-like feel, like a tiny theater, not just a living room. Evenings felt like parties. I used to barbecue ribs in the backyard before shows.
Juliana Nash (Co-founder, Original Music Booker): Booking music at petes candy store was exciting, especially during the rise of alt-folk. Early acts included Devandra Banhart, Sufjan Stevens, and Langhorne Slim, some having their first gigs at petes candy store. Residencies with Reverend Vince and Cynthia Hopkins were highlights. Will Oldham and Beth Orton also played. I doubted Andy’s vision of a successful bar on quiet Lorimer Street, but I was wrong.
Mira Jacob (Author): Andy asked me to start a reading series, maybe because I was the neighbor most likely to complain about noise. I agreed, though terrified, and partnered with my roommate Alison Hart, the most organized person I knew with great literary taste.
Suzanne Snider (Bartender): During my job interview, I exaggerated my bartending experience. On my first day, Andy handed me the keys and left, trusting me completely. I didn’t even know how to pour a pint properly that first night.
Mindy Tucker (Photographer): I moved to Williamsburg soon after petes candy store opened. It was a new, exciting place everyone talked about. It was just “in the air.”
Andy McDowell: People would wander in lost, and I’d get calls all night for directions, a funny relic from pre-smartphone days. Some arrived clearly on a mission, finding petes candy store like an oasis.
Mira Jacob (Author): Pete’s Candy Store always aimed to be a neighborhood hub, with bingo for older residents, readings for literary types, and music for everyone.
Suzanne Snider (Bartender): Pete’s Candy Store was unique. Andy connected with long-time residents, even convincing them to join Tuesday bingo, drawing them from their stoops in winter. I learned all the “stoop ladies’” names through bingo. I still keep in touch with them 20 years later.
Sue Inzerelli (“The Mayor of Lorimer Street”): The bingo game was popular with local ladies every Tuesday. Sadly, most of those women have passed away. I think I’m the only one left now.
Mira Jacob (Author): Our most memorable reading was post-9/11. Abigail Thomas read from Safekeeping, reminding us of New York’s resilience through past decades.
Howard Fishman (Musician): From our first performance, petes candy store felt magical, a synergy between our music and the venue’s atmosphere. Juliana immediately offered us a weekly residency, every Thursday for three years. It became our spiritual home, where we developed our sound, debuted material, and experimented freely, knowing the audience and venue supported us. We never missed a week, even performing two days after 9/11 in a deeply emotional show.
Reverend Vince Anderson (Musician): We played on September 16, 2001, after 9/11, opening with Paul Simon’s “American Tune.” People shared stories of missing loved ones afterward. We prayed and cried together. It felt like church. Sunday nights at petes candy store became a community for lament, song, drink, and dance.
Mindy Tucker (Photographer): The original Howard Fishman Quartet shows were incredible. It felt like the room was made for them. Their residency, and Reverend Vince’s, drew regulars and refined their performances, a special experience to witness.
A THRIVING COMMUNITY AT PETE’S CANDY STORE
Suzanne Snider (Bartender): Closing petes candy store late with barback Michael, we once argued over tips. To resolve it, we burned the disputed money in the sink and hugged—cathartic and memorable. Michael and Mirek taught me Czech swear words to yell across the bar for attention, ending nights with “dobre notz.”
Ori Cosentino (Bartender): My earliest memory of petes candy store is selling cigarettes from those cute cubbies behind the bar! The owners of petes candy store and Union Pool created a family among staff and community, which is amazing. Even 15 years after leaving petes candy store, I’m still included in their events, which I deeply appreciate.
Suzanne Snider (Bartender): I enjoyed music talks with regulars like Tom Leach and Colin, who made me mix tapes I still have. Like most bartenders, I got odd invitations. One lewd proposal was so shocking, I retreated from that side of the bar for the night. I loved Reverend Vince and Juliana’s performances.
Ori Cosentino (Bartender): Before social media and Williamsburg’s mainstream popularity, petes candy store felt like a hidden gem. Local Italian ladies, firemen, and neighbors frequented the bar, creating a unique New York atmosphere. I also loved the McCarren Pool concert after-parties at petes candy store, even as the neighborhood rapidly changed.
Annie Rudden (Williamsburg Resident): I participated in trivia at petes candy store around 2004 with teams like T&A, C Town Town, and Touched by an Uncle. Winning teams received “A Tasty Sandwich,” which, from personal experience, was indeed very tasty!
Jacob Silver (Current Music Booker): My first NYC job was at Mikey’s Hook-Up. Andy from petes candy store came in for computer help, and I fixed it. I gave him a CD of my band, The Wild Band of Snee, and we booked a show. A year later, Andy asked me to be the music booker. I was surprised, having little booking experience, but thrilled.
Jamie Hook (Artist, OCD Lecture Series Host): Pete’s Candy Store contributed to building the Williamsburg community, unlike newer places focused on profit. It was a place people talked about, a must-visit spot, especially with limited competition like Union Pool and Galapagos.
Jacob Silver (Current Music Booker): Back then, many small Williamsburg venues had similar programming, with multiple bands nightly. I frequented North 6, Galapagos, and Luxx.
Sasha Dobson (Musician, Puss n Boots Co-founder): Pete’s Candy Store is a great, welcoming space where you can be yourself, socially and musically. The back room is special. It helped me develop as a songwriter and guitarist, for which I’m grateful.
Matty Charles (Musician, Bartender): My trio, The Valentines, started a residency at petes candy store in 2003, lasting about four years. I saw many great performers there, including Big Lazy, Gerard Smith, Hospitality, and Howard Fishman.
Dave Thrasher (Bartender, GM): BJ Snowden was my favorite petes candy store performer. Other highlights include Rushad Eggleston dancing with his cello, Reverend Vince Anderson’s wild shows, and spontaneous after-hours dance parties.
Reverend Vince Anderson (Musician): Coldplay members once came to a gig, bought CDs, got drunk, forgot, and bought more.
Jamie Hook (Artist, OCD Lecture Series Host): I started hosting a Kentucky Derby party at petes candy store inspired by a Kentucky friend. Once, cops parked outside during post time, worrying Andy, but they just came in to bet, post-OTB closure rumor had it. My favorite OCD lecture was the Hassids vs. bike messengers debate about a bike lane closure, which got quite heated.
Matty Charles (Musician, Bartender): I loved working at petes candy store. One busy night, Dave Thrasher and I were bartending. A customer stiffed me twice. The third time he ordered, Dave served him, charming him into leaving a big tip—impressive teamwork.
PETE’S CANDY STORE IN THE 2010s
Dave Thrasher (Bartender, GM): I never wanted to be GM, preferring bartending. But an injury led to an office job at petes candy store and eventually the GM role.
Reverend Vince Anderson (Musician): Around 2010, I co-pastored Revolution NYC church at petes candy store with Jay Bakker until about 2016.
Jon Gernhart (Sound Engineer, Bartender): I moved to Brooklyn in 2010 and petes candy store was the only bar I knew. I started doing sound in 2011, running sound for Brian Chase of Yeah Yeah Yeahs early on. It became my second home, and I started bartending in 2013.
Lexi Rasmussen (Bartender): On my first night, Dave pranked me with a “health code hat.” We also played a tip-guessing game where I won on my first try—revenge, maybe.
Somers Barto (Bartender, Manager): I found petes candy store through Tinder after moving from Nashville. A match recommended it for live music. We never met, but she led me to petes candy store. I started in sound, then barbacking in 2015, and I’m still here, loving it.
Lexi Rasmussen (Bartender): Pete’s Candy Store was controlled chaos, fostering camaraderie. Dice games with Ian, Sam Rio’s laughter during a fight, and dressing as priests with Greg and Miro for my nun Halloween costume—customers were always nicer then.
Somers Barto (Bartender, Manager): Dave and Andy shaped petes candy store’s identity. Staff longevity here is remarkable. It’s special, like Stockholm syndrome mixed with cheap drinks and a recharging space.
Bradley Spinelli (Author, Killing Williamsburg): I met Andy in Guatemala around 2009. When Killing Williamsburg came out in 2013, we did a reading at petes candy store with Mike DeCapite and Jacob Tomsky, spanning decades of Williamsburg stories.
Willie Johnson (Play Date Curator): Pete’s Candy Store is artist-friendly, unlike the cutthroat NYC theater world. It’s a cozy, beautiful space, perfect for our play reading series, Play Date at Pete’s, running monthly since 2015. Andy has always been supportive.
Jeff Bance (Pete’s Regular, Teacher): For nine years, my school staff has made petes candy store our Friday happy hour spot, calling it “the library” in code with students who still wave through the windows.
Bobby Hankinson (Kweendom Host): Pete’s Candy Store smelled like grilled cheese, instantly appealing. After seeing friends perform, I wanted to host my LGBTQ comedy show, Kweendom, there. The room is perfect for comedy—intimate, warm, separate from the bar. It’s been great since 2017.
Willie Johnson (Play Date Curator): Pete’s Candy Store even hosted a fundraiser for my play, including an ice cream sandwich eating contest where bartender Somers Barto dominated.
Bobby Hankinson (Kweendom Host): Hosting Kweendom at petes candy store, a non-queer space, was important. It’s welcoming and attracts a diverse crowd who enjoy our queer comedy in the performance room. We’ve hosted incredible comedians like Bowen Yang and Joel Kim Booster, creating memorable, wild shows.
Danny Bellini (Writer, Filmmaker): At the Prosebowl at petes candy store, the atmosphere was calm and nostalgic. The crowd felt earnest and modest. Winning, I got holiday pickles as a trophy, which I loved—a symbolic, ingestible prize.
PETE’S CANDY STORE: PRESENT AND FUTURE
Howard Fishman (Musician): Williamsburg became “Brooklyn cool,” attracting tourists and corporate interests, displacing what made it cool initially.
Andy McDowell: For a decade, I’ve navigated Williamsburg’s changes, avoiding over-strategizing. The demographics shifted; many former petes candy store regulars moved away but still return, which is unusual and appreciated. New Williamsburg residents still appreciate petes candy store’s unpretentious vibe.
But it’s different now. Fifteen years ago, anyone in Williamsburg knew petes candy store. Now, younger residents might have heard of it but not visited. There are so many new venues.
Bradley Spinelli (Author, Killing Williamsburg): Ironically, most venues from Killing Williamsburg are gone. Pete’s Candy Store and Vera Cruz might be the only survivors. Recent closures like Rosemary’s Greenpoint Tavern are significant.
Andy McDowell: Dumont’s closing was sad; it opened soon after petes candy store. I knew Colin Devlin, DuMont’s owner, who passed away. Enid’s closing was also sad. Rent increases are challenging, threatening neighborhood institutions.
Jacob Silver (Current Music Booker): Williamsburg is commercialized and expensive. Young people need good jobs to afford living here now. In 2003, people moved here for the vibe and figured it out. That attitude fostered art and music. Bands prefer early slots now because everyone works early jobs.
Andy McDowell: I feel lucky with my landlord at petes candy store. Rent increases have been fair. But excessive rent hikes can harm neighborhoods, leading to empty, unused commercial spaces. Change is gradual, like watching a child grow, noticeable over time.
Jerry Trotta (Building Owner): In 1999, no building was over three stories. Zoning changed, altering the neighborhood. I still visit Bamonte’s and Frost Restaurant and friends on the block, but traffic makes it less frequent.
Suzanne Snider (Bartender): It’s surprising anything survives Williamsburg’s turnover. Pete’s Candy Store transcends trends, offering something for everyone—carpenters, happy hour crowds, musicians. It’s still magical, even with the faint smell of old indoor smoking.
Willie Johnson (Play Date Curator): Pete’s Candy Store is a throwback to old Williamsburg, a place for artists and musicians to enjoy cheap drinks and great music.
Suzanne Snider (Bartender): I recently took my daughter to petes candy store to see Andy’s daughter perform—the next generation!
